Diverse And Versatile Alliums - 27 East

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Diverse And Versatile Alliums

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Feb 1, 2016
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Onions, leeks, scallions, garlic and shallots are all part of the Allium genus. These edible pungent bulbs are perfect for nearly every savory dish on a menu. Raw red and white onion, scallions, chives or shallots are in my salad every day. Sometimes I even add a few confit of garlic cloves!

Honey glazed onions can be made with white or red wine.

All leeks are filled with sand. When a recipe calls for whole leeks, it is worth the work of cleaning them. Usually leeks play a supporting role in a dish, but they are the solo act in Leeks Vinaigrette. Serve it warm as a side for meats and poultry, room temperature with fish, or on their own as a vegetable dish.

The Allium Soup is composed of as many members of the genus as possible. Feel free to substitute one member for the other without hesitation! Bon appétit!

Honey Glazed Onions(Serves 6)36 small white boiling onions

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

About 1 tablespoon olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 to 3/4 cup full-bodied red wine

For the glaze:

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/4 cup honey

Chopped fresh flat leaf parsley for garnishTo prepare:Peel and trim onions. With the point of a sharp knife, pierce the root end with a large X.

In an enameled, covered saucepan over moderate heat, add butter and oil.

When the foam subsides, add onions and roll them around the pan.

Season with salt and pepper and add wine to the pan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and braise until tender (but not falling apart) about 20 minutes.

Transfer onions to a side dish.

Raise the heat, reduce the cooking juices to a glaze and pour over the onions.

Just before serving, in a skillet large enough to hold the onions in one layer over moderate heat add butter and honey. When the butter melts, add onions, lower the heat, and simmer until onions are hot and glazed.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Transfer onions to a heated vegetable dish and sprinkle with parsley.Leeks Vinaigrette(Serves 4)8 medium firm fresh leeks, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 2 1/2 cups good quality veal stock (or chicken)

For the vinaigrette:

2 large shallots, chopped

1/4 cup white wine vinegar aged in oak (or sherry vinegar)

1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard (Grey Poupon)

About 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilTo prepare:Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Trim off dark green tops of the leeks, leaving the pale green parts. Trim roots, leaving them intact. Cut in half lengthwise. Tip each half upside down and fan out the leaves while holding the leek under running water to flush out the sand. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.

In a large glass baking dish, arrange the leeks, cut sides up in one layer.

Pour the stock over the leeks, cover first with parchment paper and then foil, and seal the edges.

Bake until tender, about one hour.

Carefully remove leeks from the baking dish, allowing the liquid to drain off.

Transfer leeks to a large platter and keep warm in turned off oven.

Meanwhile, pour 1/2 cup of the braising liquid into a measuring cup.

Store the remaining stock in a glass jar and freeze or refrigerate for another time.

In a saucepan over high heat, bring shallots and vinegar to a boil and reduce by half, about three minutes.

Whisk mustard and braising liquid into the shallots and blend well.

Lower the heat and slowly whisk olive oil into the mixture. Add any accumulated juices under the leeks to the vinaigrette.

Taste and adjust seasonings.

Pour the vinaigrette over the warm leeks and serve at once.

Can be served at room temperature.Allium (Onion, Leek, Shallot, Garlic, And Scallion) Soup(Serves six)3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium yellow onion, sliced thin

1 medium white onion, sliced thin

2 leeks, white parts only, washed and sliced thin, crosswise

2 shallots, minced

1 baking potato, peeled and diced small

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch scallions, trimmed and sliced thin

1 teaspoon thyme or 1 whole sprig fresh thyme, stem removed

Grating of fresh nutmeg to taste

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup dry vermouth

2 to 3 quarts good quality veal, beef or chicken stock or a combination of all three, hot

1 bunch chives, for garnish

Optional: Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnishTo prepare:In a large stockpot over low heat, coat the bottom with oil, add butter and when the foam subsides, add onions, leeks, and shallots.

Season with salt and pepper, and sauté, stirring frequently until vegetables begin to soften, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Add potato, garlic, scallions, thyme and nutmeg and continue cooking/stirring until the alliums are rich and golden brown, and the potato is tender.

Total cooking time will be about 40-45 minutes.

Taste and adjust seasonings.

Add the vermouth all at once, stirring constantly.

Add hot stock, stir well, and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer about 30 minutes longer to develop the flavor.

Taste and adjust the seasonings. (Add more stock or water if necessary according to taste.)

Can be made ahead, chilled, and reheated before serving.

Ladle into warm soup bowls, garnish with chives and optional Parmesan cheese.

Serve with hot crusty French bread.

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