Cook With The Harbingers Of Spring - 27 East

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Cook With The Harbingers Of Spring

Number of images 4 Photos
Wild ramp. JANEEN SARLIN

Wild ramp. JANEEN SARLIN

Asparagus pesto. JANEEN SARLIN

Asparagus pesto. JANEEN SARLIN

Asparagus pesto after adding lemon juice.  JANEEN SARLIN

Asparagus pesto after adding lemon juice. JANEEN SARLIN

Wild ramp. JANEEN SARLIN

Wild ramp. JANEEN SARLIN

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: May 7, 2018
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Asparagus, fiddlehead ferns and wild ramps are three harbingers of spring. Individually, each one is distinct and perfectly unique.

We’ve all steamed, blanched, roasted, grilled or baked asparagus—but have you had fresh asparagus pesto on pasta? You’ll be pleasantly surprised how delicious it is.

It’s a very short season for fiddlehead ferns. Look for rich, dark green-colored tightly coiled fern frond (that looks like the spiral end of a violin/fiddle.) Their grassy flavor is a cross between asparagus and green beans. Wash them just before sautéing or simmering them. They are a good source of vitamin A and C. Fiddlehead ferns garnish a quick stir-fry of zucchini “pasta” for a glorious green vegetable side dish.

When you see wild ramps in the market, pick up a bunch. Trim off brown parts and the sandy roots, wash, and shake them dry or pat with a paper towel. Coat the bottom of a skillet with oil or butter, add the ramps, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and sauté briefly. Add a splash of water, stock or dry vermouth, reduce the heat and simmer until they are tender to the point of a knife, about two or three minutes. Or make this wild ramp vinaigrette to add pizazz over blanched asparagus, thinly sliced cucumbers, or a green salad. Bon appétit!

Asparagus Pesto(Serves 4)1 pound fresh asparagus, trimmed and thick stems peeled, chopped

4 stalks asparagus, blanched for garnish

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn, plus extra for garnish

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 to 1 pound spaghetti, your favorite brandTo prepare:Working in the food processor fitted with the stainless steel blade, add asparagus and process until finely chopped, add half of the oil, cheese, basil, and lemon juice and process until mixed well.

Transfer to a large bowl, stir in remaining cheese, taste and adjust the seasonings.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until it is al dente. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the cooking water and strain the pasta.

Immediately add pasta to the pesto sauce, mix well adding about 1/4 cup of the cooking water, or more if necessary, to form the sauce.

Toss well, taste and adjust the seasonings and serve at once garnished with basil leaves and cooked asparagus tops.Fiddlehead Ferns On Zucchini ‘Pasta’(Serves 4)5 to 6 medium zucchini, scrubbed and cut into thin spiral slices

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Juice of 2 lemons,

Approximately 1/3 cup avocado or olive oil for sautéing

2 to 3 large shallots, minced

About 1/2 pound fiddlehead ferns, trimmed and rinsed

6 to 8 fresh mint leaves, minced or more to taste

About 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley or more to taste

About 1/2 cup vegetable stock or water as needed

Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnishTo prepare:Scrub zucchini, trim ends, and cut into thin lengthwise slices, then stack the slices and cut into lengthwise thin strips (julienne) again. (Or place zucchini into a spiralizer vegetable slicer.) Transfer shredded zucchini to a bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with a few drops of lemon juice. Set aside.

In a large non-stick skillet over medium heat, coat the bottom with oil, add shallots and sauté until softened and aromatic, about five minutes. Increase the heat, add fiddlehead ferns to the pan and sauté until they are light brown on the edges, reduce the heat, add salt and pepper to taste, plus 1 or 2 tablespoons of vegetable stock, cover with parchment paper directly on top of the fiddleheads, lower the heat, and cook until they are tender, about five to seven minutes. Increase the heat, add about 1 tablespoon lemon juice and deglaze the pan. Transfer the fiddleheads to a side dish, drizzle with a bit more oil and keep warm.

In the same skillet, over high heat, coat the bottom of the pan with a thin layer of oil, add zucchini and stir fry until the “pasta” glistens, add mint and parsley and oil necessary until the zucchini is crunch tender, cooking time will depend on the amount of zucchini in the pan. Add stock or water if necessary to keep the zucchini moist.

Return the cooked fiddlehead ferns to the skillet and stir with zucchini to reheat. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Transfer to warm pasta bowls, drizzle a few drops of extra virgin olive oil on top and serve at once. Pass the Parmesan cheese at the table.Wild Ramp Vinaigrette(Makes about 1 cup)2 or 3 wild ramps, roots trimmed and washed, patted dry

1 tablespoon Grey Poupon mustard

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar, or more to taste

About 1/2 cup of good quality extra virgin olive oil or avocado oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Optional, pinch of sugar or 1/2 teaspoon clover honey

Splash of fresh lemon juiceTo prepare:Cut the ramps into 1/4-inch slices, place in a mini chop, and briefly chop. Add mustard and vinegar and process until evenly chopped. With the motor running add olive oil through the feeding tube until the mixture becomes and emulsion. Taste, add salt, pepper, honey, and lemon juice according to personal preference. Spoon over vegetables or salad greens.

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