The More Complex Side Of Cauliflower - 27 East

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The More Complex Side Of Cauliflower

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Sep 30, 2014
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Cauliflower has impressive levels of antioxidants, fiber and vitamin C. Its crunchy texture is great in salads, or it can be velvety smooth in puréed soups and sauces—imparting a creamy texture without cream.

Look for a bright and firm head (white, purple, green or golden), and perky green leaves with no visible signs of brown or yellow spots. Store it in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.

Slicing raw cauliflower on a benriner is tricky, so use the hand guard. The results are very attractive slices that make this a unique salad to serve those who love raw vegetables. Try the Tuscan—pale green or orange-colored—cauliflower for a more colorful dish.

Cauliflower soup is naturally creamy, but if you’d like to embellish it with cream, slowly whisk it in toward the end.

The exotic spices of northern India are intensified while slow cooking the cauliflower, making this my favorite dish out of the bunch. It’s marvelous alongside roasted or grilled chicken.

Bon appétit!

Fresh Sliced 
Cauliflower Salad(Serves 4)1 small cauliflower, or half a large head, separated into large florets

1 medium red onion, chopped

12 large fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade

1 pint small grape tomatoes, washed

1 large clove garlic, minced

8 sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped

2 lemons, juiced

1 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to tasteTo prepare:Rinse florets.

Set florets on their side.

Carefully cut into thin slices using a benriner or mandolin.

Transfer to a mixing bowl.

Toss with onion, basil and tomatoes.

Mince garlic and sundried tomatoes together.

Transfer to a small bowl.

Whisk in lemon juice and vinegar.

Slowly add the oil, whisking constantly, until the mixture forms an emulsion.

Season with salt and pepper.

Drizzle just enough dressing over the cauliflower to coat the vegetables.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.Creamy Cauliflower Soup(Serves 6)3 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

2 large leeks, white parts only, chopped

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 whole head cauliflower, separated into florets

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 stalk celery, peeled to remove strings, sliced

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped

Pinch of red pepper flakes, if desired

7 cups good-quality chicken stock, simmering

Snipped fresh chives, for garnish

Optional: 1 cup heavy, or light, creamTo prepare:Coat the bottom of a large stockpot with oil over moderate heat.

Add butter.

Add leeks and garlic when the foam subsides.

Sauté briefly.

Add cauliflower, carrot, celery, thyme and seasonings.

Sauté the vegetables, until glazed with light brown edges, about 10 minutes.

Add stock, completely covering vegetables by 1 inch.

Cover.

Bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat.

Simmer, until vegetables are soft, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove from heat.

Purée the soup with an emersion blender, until thick and creamy.

Set soup back over the heat.

Simmer, if the consistency is too watery. Add stock, or cream, if soup is too thick.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Ladle into warm soup bowls.

Top with chives.Northern Indian-Style CauliflowerAdapted from Mangoes & Curry Leaves, by Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford(Serves 5 to 6)1 large head cauliflower, leaves and core removed, cut into large florets

1/4 cup safflower or avocado oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 bay leaf

1 clove garlic, minced

1 quarter-size slice fresh ginger, peeled and minced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

Sea salt, to taste

1 tablespoon coriander

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne, to taste

1 cup water

6 cups steamed basmati rice, for serving

Handful of parsley leaves, chopped, for garnish

Optional: Green hot chili peppers, stems removed and slit lengthwiseTo prepare:Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Wash cauliflower.

Drain well.

Pat dry with paper towels.

Coat the bottom of a large, heavy casserole dish (with a tight-fitting lid) with oil over moderate-high heat.

Working in batches, sauté cauliflower on all sides, turning often until they are all brown, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Put cauliflower aside.

Reduce the heat to medium.

Add cumin seeds, bay leaf, garlic and ginger to dish.

Sauté, until aromatic.

Add onion.

Cook, until they are soft and translucent with a bit of brown on the edges, about 8 minutes.

Add tomatoes, salt, coriander, garam masala, cayenne and turmeric, stirring well to blend.

Cook, stirring until the top of the seasonings sheen.

Add chili peppers.

Cook, until they shine.

Add water.

Stir well.

Bring to a boil.

Cook, until it becomes a wet thick paste.

Add cauliflower.

Toss gently to coat it.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Cover.

Seal the lid with aluminum foil.

Bake for 20 minutes.

Spoon cauliflower over steamed basmati rice.

Garnish with parsley.

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