The Chef’s Notebook: Savoring the Shift — Farmers, Fall Flavors and the Quiet Joys of a Coastal Autumn

Fall’s creeping in. Mornings shed the thick, salty humidity of summer, revealing crisp air and a bite of chill before the afternoon sun reminds us it’s not done just yet. The town feels almost like a secret — the crowds have thinned, your favorite restaurant finally has an open table and there’s no wait at the grocery store. The ocean’s still warm enough for a dip, and the beaches are blissfully empty. This is what we hold out for, the quiet reward after the manic rush of summer in a small town.

But the real magic is at the farm stands. Those perfect, sun-ripened tomatoes still cling to their last days of glory, sharing space with the first apples of the season and hearty squash. It’s a fleeting mash-up you’d expect to find only in a grocery store, but here it’s all real, local and impossibly fresh.

We’re in this sweet spot where we get to savor the best of both worlds: late summer’s bright, juicy flavors mingling with the comforting heartiness of fall. One day you’re tossing together a tomato salad, the next you’re roasting squash and apples, effortlessly blending two seasons on your plate.

I’ve shifted too, from working seven days a week to just four practically overnight. It’s a strange kind of whiplash that leaves me standing still after months of being in constant motion. As a private chef for over a decade, the summer rush is an exhilarating, exhausting dance that pulls me away from the people and moments that matter most. The season’s relentless pace takes its toll, turning the joy of cooking into a demanding marathon, often blurring the line between passion and duty.

I’m endlessly grateful for the work, the families who welcome me into their homes, and the thrill of creating in the kitchen. But as the summer frenzy fades, I’m eager to reclaim something more precious: time with my own family. My son’s laughter over Sunday pancakes, afternoons spent wandering apple orchards and pumpkin carving we hold as a cherished tradition. My husband, who’s been holding down the fort with boxed rice, salad and steak, will finally get to enjoy home-cooked meals again. This is our off-season — a quieter, slower time to savor the simple things we’ve missed, reconnect and remember why we do this in the first place.

I caught up with Maddie Storch of The Green Thumb, who gave me a look at what it’s like winding down after Labor Day.

“We keep it going, it’s just not as fast of a pace,” she said. “We take a breath. It gets quiet, but then we have school groups come in October and then around Thanksgiving is a super busy time.”

So winding down isn’t quite right — for many farmers, it’s more like ramping up for a second act. Places like Milk Pail, Seven Hands, Fairview at Mecox, and Hank’s are gearing up for their busiest days yet, welcoming families eager for apple picking, pumpkin patches and the nostalgia of fall. As the town slows, the farms come alive, embracing the season in full swing.

What better way to embrace the season than with one of my go-to fall soups: simple, straightforward and packed with the kind of flavors that make you want to savor every spoonful? All you need is a sheet pan and a blender — minimal effort, maximum payoff.

Ginger Honeynut Squash Soup

Serves 4

You can find all these ingredients, including local ginger, at The Green Thumb in Water Mill

Ingredients:

4 small honeynut squash, halved and seeded (you can sub 1 large butternut squash)

1/2 cup carrots, cut into large pieces

1/2 cup celery, cut into large pieces

4 shallots, cut in half

1/2 cup chopped fresh peeled ginger

6 whole garlic cloves

4 tablespoons butter

1 to 2 cups vegetable broth

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

Olive oil

Sea salt

Instructions:

1. Prepare the sheet pan: Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper. Drizzle the pan with olive oil, 1 tablespoon of rice vinegar and sprinkle generously with flaky sea salt. Place the squash halves face down on the pan.

2. Roast the vegetables: In a bowl, coat the carrots, celery, onion, ginger and garlic with the remaining rice vinegar, about 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt. Arrange the vegetables around the squash on the sheet pan. Roast for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent the vegetables from burning on the edges.

3. Add butter and finish roasting: Dot the vegetables with butter and roast for an additional 15 minutes, until the squash is fork-tender and the vegetables are caramelized.

4. Blend the soup: Remove the pan from the oven and let it cool slightly. Scoop the squash flesh from the skins and combine it with the roasted vegetables and any browned bits of butter from the pan in a blender. Blend, gradually adding the vegetable broth until you reach your desired consistency. Add the heavy cream (if using) and season with salt to taste.

Optional Toppings:

Lemon ginger crème fraîche: Mix 1 cup crème fraîche with 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest and 1/2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger.

Fried garlic, rosemary or sage

Smoked chili oil

Harry’s pumpkin challah croutons: Available at Fairview Farm and they’re phenomenal. Or you can buy the pumpkin challah and make them yourself.

Toasted pumpkin seeds

Brown butter

Smoked paprika

Crispy onions or bacon bits