A Lamb Leg Fit For Easter

You might ask, “What’s new about roasting, or grilling, a leg of lamb?” The easy answer is nothing—the technique of marinating a leg of lamb in yogurt is ages old in Middle Eastern cuisine—but it is fresh to me!

I recently gave it a try, and good thing I did. The yogurt enzymes tenderize the meat, giving the lamb a succulent, delicate flavor perfect for a dinner party, or even Easter. Serve with flageolets—tiny, tender kidney beans that are a classic accompaniment to lamb in France, and also pair well with roast chicken, or goose. Don’t forget to soak them overnight.

Round out the menu with blanched haricots verts as a side dish, and coconut or carrot cake for dessert. Bon appétit!

Roast Leg Of Lamb(Serves 6 to 8)7 large cloves garlic, peeled, 4 slivered and 3 halved

1 7-pound leg of lamb, with bone, trimmed and tied

1 quart plain non-fat yogurt

Grated zest of 2 lemons

4 sprigs thyme/rosemary, 2 for marinade and 2 for garnish

Coarse sea salt, to taste

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh rosemary leaves, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon peppercorns (mixture of black and white, green and red), coarsely ground

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, sliced

1 carrot, peeled and sliced

1 cup full-bodied red wine

For the jus:

Olive oil, for sautéing

2 large shallots, minced

1 cup red wine

1 cup chicken stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to tasteTo prepare:Poke holes in the meat with a sharp knife.

Insert slivered garlic into the holes.

Place lamb in a large non-reactive dish.

Whisk zest into yogurt.

Smear the lamb with yogurt.

Add a rosemary and thyme sprig.Cover with plastic wrap.

Refrigerate overnight, or up to 2 days.

Preheat the oven to 450ºF.

Remove lamb from the marinade.

Scrape off most of the yogurt.

Discard.

Season the lamb with salt.

Mix mustard, herbs and peppercorns in a small bowl, adding oil for spreading, as necessary.

Smear lamb with seasoned mustard.

Set the lamb on a roasting rack in a roasting pan lined with onion and carrot.

Roast, until lamb is brown, about 25 minutes.

Reduce oven temperature to 350ºF.

Add halved garlic cloves and wine to the pan.

Continue roasting, until a meat thermometer registers 130ºF, about 30 minutes longer, or until the lamb is done according to personal preference.

Transfer lamb to a carving board.

Let rest for 15 minutes.

Coat the bottom of a saucepan over moderate heat with oil.

Sauté shallots, until they are soft and translucent.

Add wine.

Bring to a boil.

Add stock.

Continue simmering, about 20 minutes.

Set aside.

Pour pan juices into a strainer set over the saucepan with shallots and wine, pressing the vegetables with the back of a spoon to extract the flavors.

Bring to a boil.

Simmer, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Carve the lamb.

Arrange the slices on the platter.

Garnish with thyme and rosemary sprigs.

Pass au jus at the table.Flageolets(Serves 4)1 cup flageolets, soaked in cold water over night

1 small head garlic, unpeeled with root removed

1 bay leaf

2 cups good-quality chicken stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 carrots, peeled and cut into small dice

1 stalk celery, cut into small dice

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, to taste

Optional: Flat leaf parsley, chopped, for garnishTo prepare:Place flageolets in a bowl.

Cover by 4 inches of cold water.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Soak overnight.

Drain off soaking water the next morning.

Place flageolets in a large saucepan.

Add enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches.

Bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to low.

Slowly cook the beans uncovered, about 35 minutes, adding water only when the level of the liquid is below the beans.

Add bay leaf, garlic, carrots and celery when the beans are partially done.

Continue simmering, adding stock, as necessary, until the flageolets are very tender, about 1 to 1½ hours.

Remove bay leaf and garlic.

Push the pulp of the garlic out onto a cutting board.

Chop into small pieces, if necessary.

Stir the pulp back into the beans.

Add oil and butter.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Transfer flageolets to a serving dish with a slotted spoon.

Garnish with parsley.