A Feast To Honor Anna Pump

I dedicate this column to my dear professional friend and colleague Anna Pump, who died last week. We all feel the loss of her expertise and fine foods from Loaves and Fishes in Bridgehampton. After buying autumnal fruit and vegetables from the farmers market and freshly caught fish from the fishmonger, I made the following dinner to honor her.

Bon appétit.

Striped Bass Roasted With Fennel, Leeks And Herbs(Serves 4)4 5-ounce fillets of striped bass, with skin

Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

1 large leek, white part only, chopped

1 small bulb fennel, trimmed, core removed, fronds chopped and reserved for garnish, and bulb thinly sliced

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Juice of 2 lemons

1/4 cup dry vermouth, or water

Small bunch flat-leaf parsley, choppedTo prepare:Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Coat the bottom of a shallow, oven-proof baking dish with olive oil.

Scatter leek and fennel in the baking dish.

Season with salt and pepper.

Drizzle with oil.

Arrange fish on leeks and fennel, leaving space between each piece.

Drizzle lemon juice and olive oil over the whole affair.

Scatter parsley and chopped fennel tops over fish.

Place uncovered dish in center of the oven.

Roast, about five to six minutes.

Add vermouth, or water, to the dish.

Continue roasting, until fish turns from translucent to opaque, approximately 10 minutes per inch. The cooking time will depend on temperature and thickness of fish.

Lift fish out of the dish with a portion of the vegetables.

Transfer to heated dinner plates.

Spoon baking juices over fish.

Serve at once.Autumnal Vegetable Bake(Serves 4)Olive oil, for sautéing

2 large onions, chopped

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

3 Japanese eggplants, washed, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch slices

2 small golden zucchini, washed, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch slices

3 small green zucchini, washed, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch slices

2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves removed, finely chopped

1 fistful fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 large tomato, washed, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 cup water, or vegetable stockTo prepare:Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Coat the bottom of a large skillet with oil.

Place over moderate-high heat.

Add onions and garlic.

Sauté briefly, until aromatic, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir eggplant and zucchini into the onions.

Season with herbs, salt and pepper.

Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, adding more oil if necessary.

Add tomato.

Mix well.

Transfer the mixture to a large baking dish.

Add enough stock, or water, to come halfway up the sides of the dish.

Bake, stirring every now and then, until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.Pearled Barley Pilaf(Serves 4)2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 cup pearled barley

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped, plus extra for garnish

4 cups good-quality chicken stock, boilingTo prepare:Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Coat the bottom of a 1½-quart casserole dish with oil.

Place over moderate-high heat.

Add onion.

Sauté, until aromatic, about 2 minutes.

Add barley, salt, pepper and parsley.

Sauté, until barley glistens.

Pour hot stock in all at once.

Stir well.

Cover.

Bring to a boil.

Place in oven.

Bake, until barley is tender and all the liquid is absorbed, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove from oven.

Fluff with a fork.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.Poached Pears Dusted With Almonds And Shaved Chocolate(Serves 4)2 cups Sauternes, late harvest riesling, or Tokay wine

2 cups water

1/3 cup sugar, or agave, to taste

1 cinnamon stick

4 Bartlett pears, peeled

Freshly squeezed juice of 1 large lemon

For the dusting:

3/4 cup roasted almonds, finely chopped

1 ounce dark chocolate, preferably more than 72-percent cacao beans

Yogurt cheese, crème fraiche, whipped cream, or vanilla ice cream, for garnishTo prepare:Bring the wine to a boil in a small saucepan over high heat.

Add sugar and cinnamon stick.

Reduce the heat.

Simmer, until the sugar is dissolved.

Peel pears.

Roll in lemon juice.

Add pears to the pan when the sugar is dissolved.

Simmer, until they are tender to the point of a toothpick inserted near the core, about 45 minutes.

Remove pears.

Allow to cool on a plate.

Chop almonds.

Place in a shallow bowl.

Roll pears in the chopped almonds just before serving.

Grate chocolate over the pears.

Transfer the pear to a dessert plate.

Serve with a dallop of yogurt cheese, whipped cream or ice cream.