Celebrating the Four Seasons

When the Four Seasons opened in New York in 1959, New York Times restaurant critic Craig Claiborne praised it as a place that was “keyed to the tempo of Manhattan ... spectacular, modern, and audacious.”

Now, 50 years later, the ongoing brilliance of this culinary power center will be celebrated at the James Beard Society’s annual tasting party and fund-raiser, “Chefs and Champagne,” in the serenely rural setting of Wolffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack on Saturday, July 25, from 5:30 to 8 p.m.

The Four Seasons owners, Alex von Bidder and Julian Niccolini, will be honored at this pleasure-fest, which will feature a silent auction, flowing champagne, the wines of Wölffer Estate Vineyard, Stella Artois beer and culinary offerings from more than 30 fine chefs, including many James Beard Foundation Award-winners. The recipient of the Christian Wölffer Scholarship will also be announced at this event.

James Beard (fondly known to Mr. von Bidder and Mr. Niccolini as a “favorite uncle”) consulted on the original menu at The Four Seasons, which Mr. Claiborne lauded for its extensive “a la minute” offerings and use of fresh herbs. Now, the flaming dishes of the 1950s are long gone, as is the lobster parfait (lobster with hollandaise and whipped cream), but the restaurant retains its emphasis on fresh seasonal food and extraordinary service, still under the guidance of its charismatic proprietors.

Over the years, these two have been at the forefront of American gastronomy, offering California (and later, Long Island) wine dinners that blew the lid off the media’s Eurocentric wine prejudices. It’s appropriate that they be lauded at Wölffer, one of the nation’s most beautiful wine estates.

For detailed information, and to reserve tickets, call (212) 627-2308 or go to www.jamesbeard.org/chefsandchampagne.