Lobster Roll Turns 50, Stays Humble

The long stretch of open road in Napeague has its fair share of roadside eateries, but one has remained a favorite among Montauk visitors for 50 years.

Widely regarded as one of the first producers of the cold sandwich from which it takes its name, the Lobster Roll has been serving the same summer lobster salad recipe on a hot dog bun since Fred Terry and his father, Richard, opened the restaurant in 1965.

Andrea Anthony, then Fred Terry’s wife, joined the business venture 13 years later. Today, she and Paul DeAngelis run the popular restaurant, which technically sits within Amagansett’s borders, as operating partners. And Mr. Terry, who opened the Lobster Roll Northside in Riverhead in 1999, remains a silent partner, according to Ms. Anthony.

The restaurant, which recently hit the silver screen on Showtime’s “The Affair,” has a history as a luncheonette.

“The earliest we can trace the building back is to 1957,” Ms. Anthony said. “In 1957, it was a luncheonette. A couple known as the Spees ran it until 1965. It’s always been this kind of venue.”

The Lobster Roll owners have kept the flavor of a mid-20th century luncheonette, playing retro music and decorating the restaurant with the same vibe. The most notable element of the seafood shack that can be traced back to the Spee family establishment is the famous “LUNCH” sign that sits on the building’s roof. Over the years, the sign has become more than just a building fixture. It is a landmark that marks the beginning of the end of what is often a long, bumper-to-bumper ride to Montauk. Customers and Montauk visitors started calling the seafood restaurant “Lunch” because of the enormous sign, Ms. Anthony said.

“The ‘Lunch’ sign has been here since 1962,” Ms. Anthony said. “Before that, the sign said ‘Luncheonette.’ But the sign itself has been here since 1962.” According to Ms. Anthony, the famous sign made it through all of the hurricanes over the last few years, but it fell victim to one of the past year’s storms.

Ms. Anthony attributes the long-term success of her restaurant to its ability to stay current and vital by following trends and remaining up to date. Four years ago, the restaurant introduced a full gluten-free menu. “We try to appeal to all the masses,” she said. “It takes a lot of energy to do that, but we feel strongly that the restaurants who are still vital after decades are the ones who go the extra mile.”

The restaurant employs between 70 and 80 people each summer, Ms. Anthony said. “It’s nice because we have had people working here for 30 years, and we have had a couple of generations,” she explained. “We know judges, police officers and lawyers who we have put through school, and I think that’s something really special.”

Despite a half century of success, Ms. Anthony still operates the Amagansett restaurant daily, during the season. “The restaurant has always been successful since it opened,” she explained. “It was always at capacity, but I think we just take it day by day. Despite the popularity and attention from Showtime, it’s important to stay humble in this business, because one day you can be in and the next you can be out.”