Good Water Farms Sings The Praises Of Microgreens

Located on 34 acres in Bridgehampton between fields and horse paddocks, Good Water Farms is the new kid on the block. The microgreen growers recently relocated from East Hampton, after needing more space for their operations.

Inside their damp, humid greenhouse, 31 varieties of edible immature plants—sunflower, pea tendrils, dark opal basil, kale and mizuna among them—are lined up on trough tables. Although it is February, it is warm inside. The vibrant lime and forest green shoots are a welcome sight, tiered in various stages of growth as far as the eye can see. It smells earthy.

The barn, which hosts their offices as well as some space for growing, is furnished with low-slung couches and modern fixtures. A curved copper bar is paneled with driftwood that owner Brendan Davison found after Hurricane Irene. For now, the inviting space is for employees only, but Mr. Davison hopes to invite chefs to host dinners there in the future, to help build a community of like-minded, fresh-focused folks.

“[Microgreens] are the foundation of the new American diet,” Mr. Davison said.

Stefan Soloviev is his new partner in the business. The two met through mutual friends out east.

A proponent of his product, Mr. Davison eats the tasty shoots at almost every meal. Explaining that they are four times more nutrient packed than regular greens, he said, “You don’t have to take vitamins.”

First learning about the nutritious produce in California in the late 1990s, the grower is now a fierce advocate for microgreens, which is why he is so excited about the farm’s new direct-to-consumer business. Launching in March, the service will offer boxes of greens, delivered to homes on the East End or available for pickup. Each box costs $24 and customers can sign up through Good Water Farms website, goodwaterfarms.com. Members must commit to two months of service, for a weekly or biweekly share.

Each box is themed around the cardinal directions, an idea that is tied to Mr. Davison’s studies of shamanism. “When you start your day or ceremony, you call on the North, South, East and West,” Mr. Davison explained.

For now, the boxes will be loosely correlated to their direction, for example the southern one will features a spicier profile, with mizuna and three types of mustards. Mr. Davison said, “Were asking customers to grow with us.”

Previously, the farm’s only direct-to-consumer sales on the East End was through Provisions, the natural foods market in Sag Harbor. For years, customers had been petitioning Mr. Davison to sell directly to them, even stopping by his old greenhouse off Route 114 in East Hampton.

One thing that Mr. Davison was adamant about when developing this new business: He did not want to create a “smoothie box.” He believes that the shoots are more than that and shouldn’t be pigeonholed.

Although Mr. Davison feels that the culinary world is just starting to see the greens as an “ingredient, not just a garnish,” he believes that it hasn’t taken off quite yet, saying, “I want to be the pioneer.”

In an effort to educate the public about the virtues of eating microgreens, Mr. Davison shares creations on Instagram. His social sharing paid off: Last summer, Mr. Davison was approached by Rizzoli International Publications to write a cookbook that would feature his story, as well as recipes by well-known chefs, like Jason Weiner of Almond Restaurant in Bridgehampton. The book will be published this fall.

However, forging a new path comes with its challenges. For example, Mr. Davison feels that Southampton and East Hampton town building codes don’t accurately reflect the changing face of agriculture. In particular, the grower said he feels that greenhouses are penalized.

“They deem them as eyesores. They don’t want people looking at them. The sad part is, this is where your food is coming from,” Mr. Davison said.

It took six months for his greenhouse to be approved by Southampton Town’s Planning Board. When he filed the application, he was told that the town was no longer an agricultural community, that it had become a resort.

“They allow people to build 10,000-square-foot houses that are polluting our bays and a greenhouse is the problem?” Mr. Davison asked.

This sentiment is echoed by other East End growers. Although many initiatives, like the farmland preservation program, work to protect the area’s agricultural legacy, it can be difficult for small farmers to maneuver within the rigorous town codes. Structures like deer fencing or hoop houses fall in a gray area when it comes to building codes.

Despite the hurdles, the move has allowed Good Water Farms to increase its production three-fold. Mr. Davison and Mr. Soloviev already sell to grocery stores like Baldor Specialty Foods and Whole Foods, but with more space, they are looking to develop partnerships with companies like Fresh Direct or Amazon Fresh.

In the new facility, Mr. Davison also hopes to fine-tune operations, so that eventually they can establish Good Water Farms all over the country.

“Microgreens have been labeled as an elitist thing,” Mr. Davison said. “Once we get to a certain level, I would really like to bring it to communities that have food deserts.”

Although the initial investment for equipment and space can be costly, the beauty of microgreens is that they can be grown anywhere: in warehouses, abandoned lots or even apartment buildings. As Mr. Davison says, “a tray is no different than an acre of land.”