3 Photos
Some years ago, at just about this time of the summer, I was walking around a friend’s yard when I happened upon a 2-foot-by-40-foot-long bed of tiger lilies.
The plants were in full bloom, and as I was admiring them, I noticed that every plant was covered with small bulbils at nearly every leaf axil, the point where the leaf joins the stem. I gathered up as many of these bulbils as I could get into a small plastic bag and brought them home.
The following day, I filled a standard plastic flat with a peat-lite soil mix and placed the bulbils on the medium, then covered the whole project with additional soil. Within weeks, the bulbils were swollen to nearly twice their original size and were heavily rooted. The flat was emptied; all of the bulbils were set outdoors in a row and were soon forgotten.
Some two years later, and with very little help from me, we had dozens of beautiful plants that were 2 to 3 feet tall and in full bloom. It was all such a minor effort in terms of how many years it took us to get some plants to grow and mature—but, boy, what a pleasant and rewarding surprise when those tiger flowers made the garden roar!
Alas, not all lilies can be grown that way, but now that mid- and late-season lily blooms are at their peak, it’s time for you to hunt them out, as they are a magnificent addition to the summer border or as specimens.
These plants should not, however, be confused with daylilies (
Hemerocallis
).
Eighty years ago, lilies were not very popular as garden plants, because they were not grown in large numbers in America and had to be shipped in from Europe and Asia. They are not like bulbs that can be in transit for long periods and subject to fluctuating temperatures without harm, and as a result many gardeners were greatly disappointed with the results they obtained from these foreign shipments. Well, old Yankee ingenuity has prevailed, and large numbers of bulbs are now grown in the United States, and many species and hundreds of varieties are now available at reasonable prices.
The commercial growers and hybridizers have become quite skilled, and now gardens can be planted with lilies that bloom from June until frost, though the greatest number seem to bloom in the early summer to mid-August. Lilies need to be planted in well-drained soil, which makes them a natural for this area, since they tend to rot in moist soils. They should not, however, be permitted to go dry when actively growing. Some species such as
grayi
,
canadense
,
speciosum
and
supurbum
prefer a semi-shaded spot, but the majority of the hybrid types do well in full sun.
They can be planted among other perennials, or in beds by themselves, but, like the unfortunate iris, the lilies have little ornamental value once flowering is done. This lends them best to spectacular mass plantings that catch the eye only at certain times of the year, or mixed in with other plants as in a herbacaeous border where the foliage is swallowed by the mass of the garden.
Bulbs are available in various sizes, the larger bulbs, of course, producing the largest stalks and the most flowers, but this can vary according to species. The bulbs of
Lilium pumilum
are seldom over 1 inch in diameter, while those of
L. regale
may be three to four times larger. The depth at which the bulbs are planted is directly related to the bulb size, with the bulb set twice as deep as its diameter. The exception is
L. candidum
, the Madonna lily, which is planted with the bulb only 1 inch below the soil.
Unlike other bulbs, the lily is planted with some of its roots intact, and if you see some being offered without roots, it’s wise to pass them up as they have either been shipped from overseas or they’ve been sitting on the shelf too long. The roots should not be dried up and lifeless; rather, they should be succulent and alive, assuring rapid growth at planting time.
Planting is usually done in the fall all the way up to our first good hard freeze, but planting can be done even later when the planting spot is heavily mulched well before planting time and remains mulched after planting to ensure some root growth before a deep freeze takes place.
Online nurseries and suppliers will ship the bulb shortly after they are harvested, so shipping times can run from September to early November, and if you are choosing several varieties, they may arrive at different times. Spring planting is also possible with winter-stored bulbs, though fall planting is always best.
At this time of the year, many garden centers are offering potted or containerized plants. These ready-to-plant specimens go for a premium but are in full bud or flower and, if not allowed to deteriorate before planting, they’ll perform well for years to come. Some lilies develop such large and spectacular flowers (and I just can’t describe the incredible colors and combinations) that they occasionally need staking, but this can be done discreetly so that the stake is not an unsightly addition. Green stakes work best, but make sure you don’t pierce the bulb when you push the stake into the ground.
Bulbs can be dug and divided or moved when the flower stalk has died back late in the season.
Lily bulbs should be ordered now, but the most popular varieties may already be sold out. Get on the back order list or order again early next year. Some good lily purveyors can be found online at BDlilies.com, Whiteflowerfarm.com and thelilygarden.com.
Yes, there are some disease and insect problems, but nothing like roses or phlox. And, of course, the deer just love the young and tender buds, and the voles may nibble on the bulbs, but these are minor challenges to the stoic gardeners of the Hamptons. For those who get a good bite from the lily bug, the only cure is a good class or book on lily propagation and hybridization.
Since many of these plants can be grown to full size from seed in just a year, this is as close to instant gratification as the world of horticulture has to offer.
Keep growing!
Andrew Messinger has been a professional horticulturist for more than 30 years. He divides his time between homes and gardens in Southampton, Westchester and the Catskills. E-mail him at: Andrew@hamptongardener.com. The Hampton Gardener is a registered trademark.
