Be Prepared, Be Very Prepared

I’ve been studying the long-range weather forecasts for several weeks and I can now confirm that winter will indeed arrive in about three weeks. That is a given. And if you had hopes that it was going to be as mild and easy as last winter you may be in for a bit of a surprise.

If the prognostications are true, there will be above-average snow and below-average temperatures. So yes, it may be prudent to get ready while there are still pansies in bloom, with ornamental kale and cabbages giving us some late season color. Now we really need to start thinking about what garden plants and shrubs may need protection and how to accomplish these tasks.

My chief concern out here is heavy, wet snow that can crush shrubs and foundation plantings that aren’t properly covered, wrapped or tied. The various effects of de-icers used on roads, paths and sidewalks are next.

But there’s also the possibility of damage to root systems that are exposed to frozen soil that simply stays frozen too long. Many plants can tolerate frozen soils, but the length of time that the soil remains frozen can easily divide the winners and losers if the plant in question is marginal in its hardiness.

First, let’s consider winter mulching. There are few plants that don’t benefit from at least a light winter mulching of the soil, as it stabilizes the soil temperature and moisture. This type of light mulching can be a fluffy layer of maple leaves, pine needles or salt hay. Other types of hay can be used but only if the tops of the hay have been cut to remove the seed heads. These light layers of mulch keep the sun from warming the soil during the day and it moderates the heave/thaw cycle in the top few inches of the garden.

If you live in a colder inland area—say in the Pine Barrens between Hampton Bays, the Moriches and 495—then a second application of winter mulch can be called for toward the East End spots. I consider a light mulch to be 1 to 2 inches of fluff; a heavier mulch would be closer to 3 to 4 inches. Let the elements pack it down though. When you apply it, it should be light and fluffy.

There is one danger to these mulches, though: voles, which are root-, bark- and crown-eating rodents. Voles love to live in that warm spot just above the soil and below the mulch.

So, if you have a history of vole damage on your property, begin trapping early. The only effective trap is an old-fashioned mousetrap baited with small pieces of apple. The traps need to be checked every few days and keep in mind that if the voles are present they will be active and reproducing all winter.

Now think about your susceptible shrubs, evergreens and foundation plantings. At the end of every winter I get emails asking how to care for plants such as Leyland cyprus and arborvitae that have been snapped and crushed by heavy, wet snow. Do they need to be tied up? Do they need to be burlapped? Do they need to be fenced in?

None of these options may be very pretty. But the protective action you take in the next month or so may look unsightly but you may have nice plants left at the end of the winter as a result.

Then there are the foundation and specimen plantings—like boxwoods, azaleas, Andromeda and others—that can catch snow loads dropped from a roof or simply piled on by 8 to 12 inches of heavy, wet snow. For the energetic and agile, the solution may be as simple as going out every few hours and shaking the branches and limbs causing the snow to harmlessly fall to the ground. But if you’ve got more than a few of these plants, going out at midnight to shake the flakes gets stale really quickly.

For ball-shaped specimens of boxwood, ilex and similar plants, a burlap lean-to can be built over the tops of the plants. This will cause the snow to be deflected off and away from the plant tops. An alternative is to completely wrap the plant in burlap and tie it up to give the structure rigidity.

The third method is to just tie the plant from bottom to top, pulling the plant structure toward the center. This makes an otherwise weak, open-structured plant more center-concentrated and stronger, causing the snow to be forced down the sides instead of into the crown where the plant would be crushed.

Each of these methods takes a bit of skill and finesse and the first time you may want to have a landscaper or experienced gardener do the job as you look on and make mental notes.

Burlap barriers can also be installed along plantings that face highways where salt is applied. A 3- to 5-foot burlap barrier can save a pine or prostrate cedar from deadly salt poisoning. Even the dust from a passing salt spreader can do permanent damage to nearby plantings.

Plan ahead and think about what types of ice melters you want to use on your walkways and driveway. Salt should be the choice of very last resort, simply because it is so damaging to the landscape and building materials. For small and thin patches of ice try to use coarse sand (not sandbox sand) and if possible mix it with stone grit for extra traction.

If you need more melting mix in some Milorganite, which is an organic, black-colored fertilizer that not only provides traction but also melts ice if the temperature isn’t much below freezing. Urea is also a good ice melter (and fertilizer) but should be used in small amounts.

Kitty litter is also great stuff to have around when traction is needed. But I’m talking about the bagged stuff, not the pre-used, post-litter-box variety.

Magnesium chloride is also a good ice melter that is fairly plant- and cement friendly. It comes in both flakes and pellets, and while it is expensive, it’s very effective down to nearly 15 degrees below zero.

Calcium chloride is probably the most commonly used ice melter on residential properties but it will kill plants. Sodium chloride or straight salt simply shouldn’t be used anywhere that it might come into contact with trees, shrubs, bulbs, perennials or the root zone of any living plants.

Lastly, don’t forget your driveway markers. Don’t you just hate seeing long strips of sod 10 feet off the driveway when everything melts in March?

Stock up on what you need. Don’t mulch until it gets colder, but that could be just days or a few weeks away. And, as always, keep growing.