The Chef's Notebook: A Taste of What’s to Come

This time of year always feels like a bit of a tease. The weather finally shifts, flowers bloom and we get those first few days of real sunshine. Be that as it may, the farm stands are still closed and we’re not quite into the swing of the growing season yet. Still, there’s a sense of something new just around the corner. The promise of fresh produce, long days and a return to that rhythm of cooking with what’s local and in season.

In the meantime, there’s still plenty to get excited about. For anyone who loves food, now’s the time to get a head start in the garden. My son Charlie and I have been out planting pansies (yes, the edible kind) and a few hearty herbs like rosemary, sage and thyme. They’re resilient enough to handle the still chilly mornings and having them just outside the kitchen door always inspires me to get cooking.

Lately, I’ve been stuck on cardamom. It’s one of those spices I didn’t grow up with and not something you'd find in the meatloaf-and-Velveeta dinners of my childhood, but I fell hard for it after a trip to Copenhagen, where I had the best cardamom bun of my life. Now, I find myself adding it to coffee, oatmeal and just about anything that could use a little warmth.

That’s how this carrot cake came about. I wanted something familiar, but with a little more depth. The cardamom in the frosting gives it a subtle, unexpected twist that takes the whole thing up a notch. It’s still the classic carrot cake you know and love. It’s moist, full of texture, and perfect with coffee, but the cardamom adds something special.

This recipe is great for spring gatherings or a quiet weekend at home. While we wait for the fields to fill back up and the markets to open their doors, it’s a nice reminder that good things are coming.

Cardamom Carrot Cake

Ingredients

Cake

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoon cinnamon

2 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

3 cups grated carrots

½ cup roughly chopped pecans

½ cup roughly chopped walnuts

½ cup raisins

2 cups white sugar

1 cup vegetable oil

4 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

Icing

16 ounces cream cheese

1 stick unsalted butter

½ pound powdered sugar

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

2 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

Optional Garnish

Toasted coconut

Edible flowers

Method

Preheat your oven to 325°F.

In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the sugar and oil until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition, then stir in the vanilla bean paste. Add the grated carrots, chopped nuts and raisins, and mix on low until just combined.

In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and spices. Add the dry mixture to the wet ingredients and mix on low until fully incorporated — being careful not to overmix.

Divide the batter evenly between two greased springform pans (cake pans work fine, too) and place them on the center rack of your oven. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.

For the frosting, beat the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, cardamom and vanilla bean paste together in a stand mixer until smooth. Make sure the butter and cream cheese are at room temperature so everything blends easily. You can make the icing ahead of time and keep it at room temperature until you're ready to use it.

Once the cakes are fully cooled, ice and garnish to your liking. I usually leave the sides bare for a more rustic look. If you do the same, just keep in mind the cake should be eaten within a few hours or wrapped in plastic wrap to keep the edges from drying out.