Life seems to be more challenging than ever these days, and many of us crave the comfort of the familiar in one form or another. And this yearning is most obvious in our food choices: simplicity is the new sophistication, while fussy fare seems dated and trivial.
These sentiments are adapted from Joanna Press’s latest release, “Cast Iron Cookbook,” Skyhorse Publishing, New York, 2009, available at Amazon.com or B&N.com, $24.95.
“Old-fashioned” (passed down from generation to generation) pans and kitchen cookware retain heat well, making them perfect for most all frying, sautéing and caramelizing, and they can go from stovetop to oven and, finally, directly to the table.
Almost everyone has a cast iron skillet in their kitchen cupboard. I recommend you pull it out, dust it off, season it according to explicit directions in the book (washing, heating, greasing with solid vegetable shortening, heating in 225-degree oven and wiping, etc.) and then create a few of Joanna’s delicious recipes.
The mac and cheese recipe is perfect to bake while you decorate the house for the holidays. Make the steak ’n’ stout with glazed onions some evening when there are just two of you for dinner.
The berry crisp works well with most any fruit to serve at your next dinner party. The salted caramel sauce is a bonus: make a jar for yourself to drizzle over ice cream (or eat with a spoon!) and one for your best sweet-tooth friend; it’s quite decadent. Bon appetit!
(Serves 8)1/2 pound uncooked elbow macaroni, or other tubular pasta1/4 pound thick-sliced lean bacon, cut into half-inch pieces1 medium yellow onion, peeled and diced1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter3 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour3¼ cups whole milk4 cups (1 pound) shredded sharp cheddar cheese1 teaspoon salt or more to taste1 teaspoon paprikaFreshly ground black pepper to taste1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese1/3 cup panko bread crumbsTo prepare:
Preheat the oven to 350.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add pasta and cook until
al dente
, about 10 minutes or according to directions on the side of the box. Drain and set aside.
Meanwhile, put the bacon in a 10-inch Dutch oven or a skillet over medium heat and cook it until a little bacon fat covers the bottom of the pan, about 3 minutes.
Stir in the onion and continue to cook, stirring frequently until golden and the bacon is cooked through, about 4 minutes longer.
Add just enough butter to measure three tablespoons of fat in the pan.
When the foam subsides, stir in the flour and cook until light brown, stirring constantly, about 3 to 4 minutes.
Whisk in the milk and bring to a boil, stirring, until completely smooth.
Reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes.
Add three cups of the cheddar cheese and stir until melted. Now stir in the cooked macaroni and season with paprika, salt, and pepper to taste.
In a bowl, mix the remaining cup of cheddar and Parmesan cheese with the panko crumbs.
Spoon this mixture over the macaroni and bake until the top is golden brown, about 30 minutes.
If the top is not browned enough, run under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand 5 minutes before serving.
(Serves 2)3/4 cup stout or dark beer2 tablespoons firmly packed dark brown sugar1 tablespoon cider vinegar1 clove garlic, peeled and split1 bay leaf1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds bone-in shell or porterhouse steak, 1 1/4 inch thick1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter1 teaspoon canola oil2 large yellow onions, peeled and thinly slicedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteTo prepare:
Combine the stout, brown sugar, vinegar, garlic and bay leaf in a zip-lock plastic bag; add the steak and let it sit for one hour or up to several hours, turning the bag every now and then.
In the meantime, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter and oil. Add onions and sauté until they are golden brown, stirring often, about fifteen minutes. Set aside.
To cook the steak, heat a cast-iron grill pan or griddle over high heat for at least five minutes. When very hot, remove the steak from the marinade, blot it dry with paper towels, and sear the first side for six to seven minutes. Turn and sear the other side for about five minutes for medium-rare.
While the steak is cooking, pour one-half cup of the marinade onto the onions. Raise the heat and bring to a boil, cook stirring often, until the liquid evaporates, about six to eight minutes. Taste, season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
Transfer the steak to a slicing board, season with salt and pepper, and let rest five minutes. Slice across the grain and serve with onions piled on top or under the slices of meat.
(Serves 4 to 6)Unsalted butter to grease the skillet1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon corn starch1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice4 cups mixed fresh blackberries and raspberries (or blueberries), washed and well drained1/2 cup sugar or more to taste2/3 cup quick cooking oatmeal1/3 unbleached all purpose flour1/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar1/8 teaspoon salt4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperatureVanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream for toppingTo prepare:
Preheat the oven to 375.
Put a baking sheet in the middle of the oven. Lightly butter a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.
In a large bowl, whisk the cornstarch and lemon juice together until blended. Add the berries and sugar and gently toss to combine the mixture before transferring to the skillet.
In the same bowl, combine the oatmeal, flour, brown sugar, salt and butter. With a fork or your fingers, stir the mixture until it is crumbly and blended. Scatter the oatmeal mixture over the berries.
Transfer the skillet to the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the topping is set and berries are bubbling, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Remove and let stand for at least 15 minutes before serving. Top with ice cream or whipped cream
(About 2 cups)1¼ cups sugar1/3 cup water3 tablespoons light corn syrup1 cup heavy cream5 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature1½ teaspoons coarse sea salt, finely crushedTo prepare:
Combine the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a medium saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil.
Cook until the syrup turns a rich amber color, about 6 minutes, swirling the pan and washing down any crystals on the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent them from burning. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream (it will bubble up, be careful) butter and salt.
Set the sauce aside to cool. Store in a glass jar in the refrigerator.
Before serving, set the jar in a pan of simmering water and reheat the sauce.
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