Cooking up fresh, local fish - 27 East

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Cooking up fresh, local fish

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Feb 16, 2010
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Sometimes we forget how fortunate we are to live on the East End of Long Island. Fresh fish is available year-round and it’s one of the healthiest sources of protein you can find. For the following recipes, feel free to substitute the freshest and best fish at the market.

Salmon is a good substitute for the red snapper or grouper on roasted winter vegetables and quinoa (which is a complete protein in itself). This recipe makes a perfect winter dish. In the summer, use steamed seasonal fresh vegetables and add them to room temperature quinoa and top with grilled fish.

Purée of celeriac is tasty by itself and makes a perfect complement for thyme-seasoned flounder, fluke, or sole. Add green beans to round out the main course.

Use your favorite herbs to flavor the bread crumbs for the flounder recipe. Presenting the fish on a bed of raw baby spinach is an attractive way to add iron and vitamins to the meal. Serve roasted red skinned potatoes on the side; they taste terrific with lemon sauce. Bon appetit!

Grilled Red Snapper 
or Grouper with Roasted 
Winter Vegetables and Quinoa

(Serves 6)Six 6-ounce grouper or red snapper filletsSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteGrape seed or peanut oil for brushingFor the quinoa and vegetables:1½ cups quinoa, washed three timesSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 large clove garlic, minced3 cups chicken stock3 large beets, scrubbed and tops removed, wrapped in aluminum foil3 white turnips, scrubbed and peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks8 carrots, peeled and cut into quarters lengthwise and then into 1-inch lengths12 to 14 cipollini onions, peeled and cut in halfExtra virgin olive oil for drizzling2 or 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped fine1 bunch chives, mincedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 tablespoon or more balsamic vinegar for drizzlingTo prepare:

To cook the quinoa, start by covering it with cold water in a deep bowl. Rub the grains of quinoa between your palms for about 10 seconds to rub off the saponin coating (naturally found on all quinoa).

Drain and repeat the process two more times. Finally, place the grains in a fine mesh strainer and run cold water over them until the water runs clear.

In the meantime, bring the stock, salt, pepper, and garlic to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat.

Add the quinoa, cover, and lower the heat to simmer. Cook until all the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. The grain will be translucent and you can see a little white circle of protein around each kernel.

Remove from the heat and let rest, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and let stand at room temperature for up to six hours.

To roast vegetables:

Preheat the oven to 425. Wrap each beet in aluminum foil and place in a baking pan and set on the top shelf of the oven.

Bake until they are tender to the point of a fork, about 60 minutes. Remove the foil and with rubber gloves slip the skin off and cut the beets into 1-inch chunks.

Meanwhile, line two baking sheets/jelly roll pans with parchment paper and drizzle olive oil on the paper. Scatter turnips and carrots on one and onions on the other pan.

Drizzle olive oil on the vegetables, and then season to taste with rosemary, chives, salt, and pepper. Roll the vegetables around to coat with oil/herbs.

Drizzle vinegar over the whole affair and roast until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes for the carrots and turnips and 20 minutes for the onions. The roasting time will depend on the size of the vegetables.

Remove from the oven, transfer to a bowl and toss with the beets. Taste and correct the seasonings.

To grill fish and serve:

Preheat the oven to 300. Toss the roasted vegetables into the quinoa, drizzle a bit of olive oil to moisten the mixture. Transfer to an oven-proof serving dish, cover with parchment paper, and bake until hot, about 10 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the grill/broiler or grill pan to high. Brush both sides of the fillets with oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toss the rosemary sprigs onto the coals of the grill if using or rub the grill pan with a sprig of rosemary. Place the fillets on the grill and cook until the fillets begin to pull away from the rack, about 5 minutes. Turn and grill until the fillets are golden brown and cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes longer.

Serve at once accompanied by the quinoa and roasted winter vegetables. Garnish each plate with sprigs of rosemary.

Celery Root with Fluke

(Serves 4)1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil or unsalted butter1 large leek, cleaned and white parts chopped1 bulb celeriac (celery root), peeled and cut into chunks1/2 cup chicken stock1/2 cup dry white wine or dry vermouthSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 scallion, mincedAbout 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley4 fillets of fluke, spiny column removedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteAbout 2 tablespoons grape seed oil for sautéingAbout 1/3 cup yellow cornmealAbout 2 sprigs fresh thyme, minced or 1 teaspoon dry thymeLime wedges for garnishTo prepare:

Add oil or butter to a heavy nonreactive saucepan over medium heat and sauté leek until it begins to soften.

Add celery root and vermouth, and bring to a boil.

Add chicken stock, salt and pepper and bring to a boil again. Cover and reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until the vegetables are soft.

Using a slotted spoon if necessary, remove vegetables and purée in a food processor. Add a little of the cooking liquid if necessary for proper consistency.

Stir in scallion and parsley. Taste and correct the seasonings and keep warm until the fish is sautéed.

To cook the fish:

Add thyme to the cornmeal in a shallow soup bowl, and mix well. Season the fillets with salt and pepper to taste.

In a skillet over medium high heat, add enough oil to sauté the fish.

Dust both sides of the fillets with cornmeal, patting off the excess meal. Then place the fish, skin side down first, and sauté until browned, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Turn the fillets over and cook until browned and the fish flakes, about 3 to 4 minutes.

To serve, immediately spoon celeriac in center of large warm dinner plate, top the purée with the fish and garnish with fresh herbs and a wedge of lime.

Herb Crusted Flounder 
with Lemon Butter Sauce

(Serves 4)Four 6-ounce fillets of flounder without skin, spiny column removedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteAbout 1/2 cup Wondra flour for dusting1 large egg, beaten with 1/2 teaspoon olive oilAbout 1½ cups fine bread crumbsGrated zest of 2 large lemons, and juice squeezed for sauceAbout 1/4 cup or more chopped fresh parsleyAbout 1/4 cup or more chopped fresh chives1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or chervil1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepperGrape seed or canola oil for sautéingFor the lemon sauce:1 cup white wine or dry vermouth1/4 cup white wine vinegar2 large shallots, minced–about 2 tablespoons1 sprig fresh thyme3/4 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into small dice1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsleyOptional: capers to tasteSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteAbout 6 cups fresh baby spinach leaves, washed and spun dryTo prepare:

To make the base for the lemon sauce, start by bringing the wine, vinegar, shallots, and thyme to a boil in a small non-reactive saucepan over high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the mixture is reduced to about 2 tablespoons of liquid. Remove from the heat and discard the sprig of thyme. Set aside until ready to finish the sauce.

To prepare the flounder: Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper according to taste. Place the beaten egg in a shallow bowl, the flour in a shallow bowl, and the bread crumbs plus lemon zest, parsley, chives, tarragon and cayenne pepper in a third bowl and mix the crumbs with seasonings until blended.

Dust the fillets with flour, pat off the excess, then dip one at a time into the eggs to coat both sides, (allow the egg to drip off) and finally, dredge the bread crumb mixture into the fillets until well coated.

Preheat the oven to 200. Meanwhile, heat the grape seed oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium high heat until it is shimmering but not smoking, and slip the flounder into the skillet. Do not crowd.

Allow the fish to cook until golden brown on the first side, about 2 to 3 minutes. Adjust the heat so it does not burn, but nicely browns the herb crust.

Turn the fillet and cook until golden brown on the other side and cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes longer. Immediately transfer the fillets to a paper towel-lined baking sheet or wire rack set over a pan. Place in the oven to keep warm a few minutes until remainder of the fillets are cooked.

To finish sauce:

Reheat the liquid over low heat, then bit by bit whisk cold butter into the sauce, constantly whisking. Remove from the heat, stir in lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper plus capers if desired. Taste and correct the seasonings and serve at once.

To serve:

Arrange a generous fistful of baby spinach leaves on a dinner plate and place the hot fish on the spinach. Drizzle lemon sauce on top and serve at once. Pass the remainder of the sauce at the table.

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