Food & Drink

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Cooking with beets

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Jul 14, 2009
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Beets and their leafy green tops are beautiful, edible, and nutritious. Beet greens, aka “tops,” are an excellent vegetable, full of calcium, beta-carotene and iron, and the ruby red globe is a useful source of folate and fiber. And bear in mind, for the sake of variety, that yellow beets or pale cream-colored beets are sometimes available at artisanal markets.

When shopping for beets, look for firm, smooth skinned small- to medium-size globes with crisp, brightly colored, unblemished leaves. Cut off the leafy greens about an inch to an inch and a half above the bulb and store the beets in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Wash and treat the leaves like all other greens: wrap in paper towels, put them in plastic bags, and refrigerate.

Dilled beets in horseradish cream is an Old World dish that works well when served with boiled new potatoes and duck or roast tenderloin of pork or beef.

If you’ve never tried garlic scapes, this week’s recipe will give you a good dish to begin with. The mild, distinct flavor of garlic enhances the taste of vitamin-rich beet greens to make 
eating vegetables a pure indulgence.

Most Midwestern picnics include a two-quart jar of pickled beets in the center of the table with a long handled spoon in the jar to scoop out the sweet/tart pickles … there are never any leftovers to take back home. Aunt Rachel added hard cooked eggs to the mix, while mom thought onions were a good addition. As far as I am concerned there’s no need to add either one, for I love pickled beets unadorned. Bon appétit!

Austrian Style Dilled Beets 
in Horseradish Cream

(Serves 4)1½ pounds beets, scrubbed and tops saved for another dish1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon unsalted butter4 slices Canadian bacon, chopped2 tablespoons white horseradish1/2 cup heavy creamSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste3 tablespoons chopped fresh dillTo prepare:

Scrub beets; cut leaves about one inch off the bulb.

In a saucepan of salted water, cook the beets until nearly tender, about 30 minutes. Drain well.

Using rubber gloves, slip the skins off the beets and discard. Cut the beets into small dice.

Add the olive oil to a skillet over medium high heat. Sauté the bacon until browned.

Add the beets (and butter if necessary), horseradish and cream. Stir well, reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce is thickened, about 5 to 6 minutes.

Taste and season with salt and pepper.

Transfer to a serving bowl; sprinkle dill on top and serve at once.

Beet Greens 
and Garlic Scapes

(Serves 4)2 bunches beet greens (from the tops of fresh beets), washed2 garlic scapes (found in farmers markets: the tops of garlic plants) choppedOr 2 large cloves garlic, minced1 to 2 tablespoons olive oilFreshly ground black pepper to tasteSea salt to tasteSplash of white balsamic vinegar or dry vermouth1 teaspoon unsalted butterTo prepare:

Wash beet greens well, let drain, but do not spin dry.

Meanwhile, cut garlic scapes into small pieces. Set in a steamer or strainer over boiling water and steam until they begin to soften, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Drain, then run under cold water and shake off excess water before patting dry with paper towels.

Coat with olive oil the bottom of a large non-reactive skillet

over medium high heat. Add garlic scapes and sauté until tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. (If using chopped

garlic, sauté until

softened, about 1

minute.)

Meanwhile, cut the

beet greens cross

wise into rough chop.

Add the greens to the

skillet all at once and sauté, stirring often, adding a bit more olive oil if necessary for cooking.

Season with pepper, salt, and a 
splash of vinegar or vermouth, then continue cooking until the greens 
are wilted and tender.

Taste and correct the seasonings. Just before serving, add butter or a few drops of extra virgin olive oil.

Pickled Beets

(About 1 quart)3 to 4 bunches fresh baby beets, trimmed and scrubbed (skins left on)1 cup white wine or apple cider vinegar1 cup boiling water1 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns1/2 teaspoon paprika1/2 teaspoon whole cloves1 bay leafAbout 1 teaspoon each of celery, dill, and fennel seeds1 teaspoon sugarOptional ingredients:4 to 5 small mild onions cut into thick slices4 small hard-cooked eggs, peeledTo prepare:

Preheat the oven to 325. Place the beets in parchment lined aluminum foil and bake until tender, about 30 to 35 minutes.

When the beets are tender, remove from the packet and let cool briefly. With rubber gloved hands, slip the skins off and discard with the tops. Leave beets whole if bite-size, or cut into quarters or slices if larger.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan over high heat, bring water, vinegar, salt, peppercorns, paprika, cloves, bay leaf, seeds and sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Place the hot beets in clean glass quart jar with a new lid that was rinsed out with boiling 
water and allowed to dry in the air. Reheat the brine until almost boiling and pour over beets in the jar, add optional ingredients if desired, and cover with lid.*

Let come to room temperature and then refrigerate for up to one month.

*Note: Add hard cooked eggs after the beets are at room temperature and then refrigerate.

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