Cooking with fennel - 27 East

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Cooking with fennel

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Feb 2, 2010
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Fennel is an aromatic plant that is rich in vitamin A and B-carotene. It also contains a decent amount of calcium, phosphorus, and potassium, with almost no calories!

Sometimes fennel is labeled “sweet anise,” which is off-putting to anyone who does not like licorice. In reality, fennel is sweeter and far more delicate than anise and, after it is cooked, the flavor is even more elusive. Look for clean, crisp bulbs with no sign of browning and feathery fronds (tops) that have a fresh green color. Fennel can be refrigerated in a plastic bag up to five days after purchasing.

Trim off the bottom of the bulb and discard. Cut the bulb in half through the core and slice into thin wedges or chop according to the recipe. I love to dip raw fennel wedges into extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle a little sea salt for an afternoon pick-me-up.

To shave fennel, use a Benriner or mandolin slicer. Then marinate it in your favorite vinaigrette and serve as a relish or on a bed of lettuce for salad, or try one of this week’s easy to follow recipes.

Toasted hazelnuts create a crunchy crust on the halibut baked on a bed of aromatic fennel enhanced with sweet tasting raisins. Add rice or couscous to complete the main course.

Healthy soba noodles and walnuts with sautéed fennel, garlic, peppers, and peas is the perfect dish to serve when vegetarians are coming for dinner. Adding fennel to cabbage to make coleslaw with aioli sauce is a delicious change. If you are skeptical about aioli sauce, add garlic and lemon juice to mayonnaise.

The next time you make steak or lamb chops, serve fennel with black olives on the side, it’s delicious. Bon appetit!

Nut Crusted Halibut 
with Fennel and Raisins

(Serves 4)Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling1 shallot, chopped1 large bulb fennel, trimmed, sliced thin and fronds chopped1/2 cup raisinsJuice of one lemonAbout 1/3 cup dry vermouthFour 6- to 7-ounce fillets of halibutSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste2½ to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts, finely chopped—or walnutsAbout 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsleyTo prepare:

Preheat the oven to 400. Drizzle olive oil over the bottom of an oven-to-table casserole dish that will hold the fillets of fish in one layer.

Scatter fennel and shallot on the bottom of roasting pan and sprinkle raisins on top, drizzle with lemon juice and vermouth.

Season the halibut with salt and pepper.

Working with your hands, mix the butter and hazelnuts and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the nut butter into four equal portions and spread it over the top of the fish.

Place the halibut on top of the bed of fennel and raisins. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes, until the butter is firm, or up to 2 hours.

Place in preheated oven and bake until the fish flakes and is tender to the point of a fork, about 15 minutes. The cooking time will vary according to the thickness of the fish. Check after 10 minutes.

Remove from oven. Holding the fish in the casserole, drain off excess juices into a strainer set over a saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook 2 minutes. Taste and correct seasonings, transfer to a gravy bowl.

Serve with fennel under the fish and pass the sauce at the table.

Soba Noodles with Fennel, 
Peppers, Peas, and Walnuts

(Serves 4)2/3 cup roasted walnuts, coarsely chopped12 ounces soba noodles1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil3 cloves garlic, chopped2 fennel bulbs, thinly sliced with fronds1 red or yellow bell pepper, sliced thin1 cup petits pois, thawed1 cup chicken brothSea salt to tasteFreshly ground black pepper to taste1/2 cup chopped parsleyZest of one orangeFreshly grated Parmesan cheese to tasteFennel fronds for garnishTo prepare:

In a dry skillet over high heat, toast walnuts until aromatic, about 10 minutes, and cool. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Cook the noodles according to the directions on the side of the package, or according to personal preference.

Meanwhile, heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, and, when hot, add garlic and sauté about 1 minute.

Add fennel and pepper and stir-fry over medium heat until softened, about 8 minutes.

Add peas, broth, and salt, simmer on low, stirring every now and then until the vegetables are tender and the liquid is reduced to a glaze.

Add drained noodles with a little of the cooking water to the fennel and vegetables and toss to mix.

Add nuts, parsley and orange zest and mix well. Taste and correct the seasonings.

Transfer to a bowl or individual serving plates, sprinkle Parmesan on top, and garnish with fennel fronds.

Fennel Coleslaw

(About 2 quarts)Basic aioli sauce (about 1½ cups):2 egg yolks: organic, pasteurized 1½ cups extra virgin olive oil2 large cloves garlic, peeled and smashed1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1 tablespoon hot waterSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste For the coleslaw:3 tablespoons sugar1/4 cup apple cider vinegar1 teaspoon coarse sea salt1/2 teaspoon black pepperAbout 1½ cups basic aioli sauce (recipe above)3 heads fennel, cored and thinly sliced, fronds chopped for garnish2 small heads green cabbage, thinly sliced1 carrot, peeled and gratedTo prepare:

Working in the food processor or blender, add yolks and process 2 minutes or until blended.

With the machine running, gradually add about half of the olive oil. With a rubber scraper, scrape down the sides of the bowl frequently.

Add garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper and process until smooth, and then slowly add in the remaining olive oil in a steady stream until the mixture is emulsified. Taste and correct the seasonings.

Transfer the sauce to a mixing bowl and, while stirring with a wire whisk, add hot water to the sauce. Transfer to a clean glass jar and refrigerate up to four days.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the sugar, vinegar, salt, and pepper together.

Add the fennel, cabbage, and carrot and stir well. Let stand about 15 to 20 minutes to slightly wilt the vegetables.

Add just enough aioli sauce to bind the salad together. Taste and correct the seasonings.

Serve at once or refrigerate up to 90 minutes. Scatter chopped fronds on top just before serving.

Fennel and Oil-Cured 
Olive Side Dish

(Serves 6)Olive oil, for sautéing1 bunch scallions, chopped2 bulbs fennel, thinly sliced2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteAbout 1/4 cup chicken stock1/2 cup oil-cured pitted olivesOptional: 1 red jalapeño pepper, seeded and thinly sliced2 teaspoons unsalted butterFresh thyme and fennel fronds, for garnishTo prepare:

Coat with olive oil the bottom of a skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the scallions and fennel and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes.

Season with thyme leaves, salt and pepper to taste. Add a little splash of chicken stock if necessary to facilitate the process.

Stir in olives, jalapeño pepper if using, butter, and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and correct the seasonings.

Transfer to a serving bowl and serve at once.

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