It's Apple Picking Time - 27 East

Food & Drink

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It's Apple Picking Time

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Oct 11, 2011
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Autumn is local apple season.

One medium apple is only 47 calories and it’s full of fiber, vitamins A and C, and potassium. Store them in a cool, dark place or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

Apples are most often eaten raw, in hand as a snack (I eat an apple nearly every day), baked for a simple dessert, or in a crust for pie or turnovers. However, here are two savory apple recipes that exemplify their versatility.

Combining chicken livers with shallots, apples and sage creates an appetizer that is especially delicious when served warm with toasted brioche and an aperitif. To serve the appetizer cold, slightly undercook the chicken livers, then continue per the recipe and coarsely chop it all together with the pan juices. Store this rough paté in the refrigerator and serve with toast or crackers.

This chicken choucroute recipe was inspired by Dorie Greenspan, a colleague and author of “Around My French Table.” It’s a lighter variation of the traditional Alsatian dish of sauerkraut with potatoes and a variety of sausages. Serve boiled potatoes and a crisp white wine to complete the menu.

Bon appétit!

Chicken Livers, Shallot
And Apple Appetizer

(Serves 6)

1 pound chicken livers, washed and trimmed of connective tissue

3 large shallots, minced

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil

1 large tart green apple, washed, peeled, cored and diced

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 2 fresh sage leaves, minced

About 1/4 cup brandy. Calvados or cognac

French baguette, sliced and toasted

To prepare:

Trim chicken livers and drain well, then pat dry with paper towels.

Melt the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over moderate high heat.

When the foam subsides, working in batches, sauté the livers quickly, turning them over once they have browned edges, about 2 to 3 minutes or longer for well done (they should be slightly pink on the inside).

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon.

When all the livers are browned, add shallots to the pan and a bit more butter if necessary.

Sauté until shallots are soft and translucent.

Add apple and sauté until softened.

Add sage and salt and pepper to taste.

Return the livers to the pan, stir well and then flame with cognac.

When the flames subside, reduce the juices to a glaze.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

To serve hot on individual plates with forks, arrange the livers in the center of appetizer plates and garnish with a sprig of sage and slices of toast.

To serve as finger food, warm or cold, roughly chop the liver/shallot mixture, mound on toasts and garnish with a tiny pinch of sage. Or, cut crisp apple into slices with the skin, mound the liver mixture on top and serve at once.

Chicken Choucroute With Apples, Apricots & Prunes

(Serves 4)

3 slices thick bacon, chopped

One 4-pound chicken, cut into 6 portions (2 breast halves, legs and thighs separated)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 medium onion, diced

3 cups (about 1½ pounds) drained and rinsed sauerkraut

2 cloves garlic minced

1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and chopped

4 dried apricots

4 pitted prunes

1½ cups dry vermouth

Fistful flat leaf parsley chopped (save a few pinches of chopped for garnish)

Optional: 1/4 cup heavy cream

To prepare:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Add the bacon to a large heavy casserole or Dutch oven and sauté over moderate heat until browned. Transfer the bacon to paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon.

Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and sauté, skin-side down until the skin is browned on both sides, about 10 minutes.

Transfer to a plate.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat in the bottom of the casserole.

Add onion and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Sauté until beginning to soften.

Add garlic and continue sautéing until soft and translucent but not brown.

Add sauerkraut, apple, apricots, prunes, bacon and vermouth to the onions.

Stir to blend.

Bring to a boil.

Simmer about 2 to 3 minutes.

Return chicken to the casserole.

Cover and bake/braise until the juices from the chicken run clear, about 30 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a platter.

Stir the parsley and cream into the choucroute and simmer briefly.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Spoon the choucroute into a large deep platter and top with chicken and sprinkle with a pinch or two of chopped parsley.

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