Seasonal Chef: How Best To Prepare Veal - 27 East

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Seasonal Chef: How Best To Prepare Veal

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Feb 28, 2012
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

The delicate flavor and fine texture of veal, which comes from a calf between 1 and 3 months old, have appealed to diners for centuries.

Look for pale pink colored veal at the market and then soak it in milk overnight to further tenderize. Rinse off the meat, pat it dry with paper towels and then proceed with the recipe.

Bon appétit!

Herb Scented 
Seared Veal Chops

(Serves 4)

4, 1- to 1½-inch thick, well trimmed veal chops, edges scored

About 2 cups milk to soak the veal

1 tablespoon juniper berries, crushed

6 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves

Optional: 2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Coarse kosher salt for the skillet

1/3 cup Madeira or brandy for sauce

1/2 cup veal stock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

To prepare:

Trim off excess fat and score the edges of the veal chops.

Place in a shallow bowl.

Add just enough milk to cover the chops.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and soak the veal overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, discard the milk, rinse the chops with cold water and pat them dry with paper towels.

Crush juniper berries in mortar and pestle or with back of a knife and place on chopping board.

Add 2 sprigs of rosemary, plus garlic and black pepper.

Chop until blended.

Spread the herb mixture on both sides of the veal chops and set aside for up to 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Sprinkle the bottom of a heavy nonstick skillet with salt.

Cook over high heat until the salt begins to pop.

Holding the chops with tongs, brown the edges of the chops, about 2 to 3 minutes per edge and then brown the sides for about 3 minutes on each side.

The cooking time will depend on the thickness of the chop or according to personal preference. Veal is best if it is pink on the inside and brown on the outside.

Transfer chops to an oven-proof dish and place in the oven.

Deglaze the skillet with Madeira or brandy, scraping up any bits of the meat and seasonings on the bottom of the pan.

Add veal stock and bring to a boil.

Taste, then swirl in about 2 to 3 teaspoons of butter to finish the sauce.

Remove the chops from the oven and spoon sauce on top.

Garnish with rosemary sprig and serve at once.

Saffron Risotto

(Serves 4)

5 to 6½ cups good quality chicken stock

About 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, or more to taste

1 generous cup raw arborio rice

1/2 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, plus extra for passing

To prepare:

Bring the broth to a slow, steady simmer in a stockpot over medium heat.

Meanwhile, coat the bottom of a heavy, large saucepan with olive oil and cook over high heat.

Add onion and sauté, stirring often until soft and translucent, about 2 minutes.

Add saffron and sauté briefly until aromatic.

Reduce the heat to moderately high.

Stir the rice into the onion mixture and toast it by stirring rather slowly and constantly until the grains turn golden and feel loose and dry. They will click softly in the pan.

Add the wine or vermouth at once.

Raise the heat to high and boil it down.

When the rice is almost dry, ladle in enough hot broth to barely cover the rice.

Regulate the heat so the broth just simmers.

Constantly and slowly keep stirring.

Continue adding chicken broth, about a half cup at a time, as the rice absorbs it.

Keep stirring the risotto.

Remove from heat when the grains have doubled in size and are suspended in a creamy liquid and rice is just tender.

Stir in the butter and half of the cheese with a wooden spoon.

Season with pepper to taste.

Immediately transfer the risotto to warmed soup plates.

Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve at once.

Sautéed Baby Bok Choy

(Serves 4)

8 to 10 bunches baby bok choy

2 cloves garlic, sliced

2 slices fresh ginger the size of a quarter, peeled and cut into thin strips

1 tablespoon peanut or olive oil

2 tablespoons chicken stock if necessary

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon freshly squeezed

To prepare:

Trim tough bottom off baby bok choy bunch.

Cut in half or quarters, keeping the bunch intact.

Wash under cold water.

Add oil to a large skillet or wok and cook over moderate high heat.

Add the garlic and ginger and sauté until light brown, about 1 minute.

Remove the garlic and ginger and set aside.

Add all the bok choy at once and sauté briefly.

Cover the pan and reduce the heat to simmer.

Cook, stirring every now and then, until the bok choy is tender to the point of a fork, about 5 to 6 minutes.

The cooking time will depend on the size of the bok choy.

Season with salt and pepper.

Return the garlic and ginger to the pan.

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Squeeze lemon juice over the whole affair and serve at once.

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