Spring Fever: Dirt, Blossoms and the Season’s First Asparagus

It’s finally here! Spring has sprung, and the traffic proves it. Garden centers are suddenly flooded with people crawling out of their winter caves, desperate for that healing sensation of dirt between their fingers.

My favorite farm stands have reopened, and while the fields are still waking up, you’ll find early harvests like leeks, scallions, spinach, sprouting broccoli, kale, radishes and greenhouse lettuces. Sunchokes, too, if you’re feeling adventurous. But what really has me excited? The Green Thumb’s lush selection of herbs, flowering plants, vegetables and seedlings, perfect for getting your garden going without the sticker price of trendier spots.

My all-time favorite this time of year — asparagus. And it’s everywhere! We’ve been grilling almost every night, keeping the mess out of the kitchen (always a bonus). Teres Major steaks from Peconic Prime Meats paired with a lush greenhouse salad and grilled asparagus has been our go-to these past few weeks. I like tossing the asparagus in Arlotta (based out of Water Mill, you can find their products at the farm stands) lemon olive oil and a good pinch of salt and lemon pepper, then throwing it on the grill for 2 to 3 minutes until it picks up a beautiful char. It’s bright, smoky, and completely addictive.

But we need to step it up. After all, this is a foodie column, and challenging ourselves in the kitchen will only increase our confidence. So, let’s give our asparagus the royal treatment with a simple yet delicious mother sauce: hollandaise. This version is blender friendly and foolproof, creating a silky emulsion in seconds. Always remember with sauces and dressing, you’re using this to flavor something else, so you want it to be slightly more acidic and saltier than you’d think. A chef trick and a good way to gauge seasoning is to taste by dipping a lettuce leaf or vegetable into your sauce and eating it, rather that tasting with a spoon.

Ingredients:

• 2 bunches fresh asparagus, trimmed
• 1 to 2 teaspoons Arlotta lemon olive oil
• Fine sea salt
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• 1 egg yolk
• ½ cup unsalted butter, melted
• ½ cup ghee, melted
• Chive blossoms (or chopped chives) for garnish

Instructions:

Grill the asparagus: Toss asparagus with lemon olive oil and a generous pinch of salt. Grill over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, turning occasionally, until lightly charred and just tender.

Make the Hollandaise:

In a blender, combine the egg yolk, zest and juice of one lemon. Blend on low for about 10 to 15 seconds to mix.

With the blender running on low speed, slowly drizzle in the melted butter and ghee.

Once all the fat is incorporated, blend for another 10 seconds on high until smooth and silky. Taste and adjust with a pinch of salt if needed. I stir in fresh chives, about a tablespoon, before serving.

Plate and serve:

Spoon Hollandaise generously over the grilled asparagus and finish with fresh chive blossoms for a delicate oniony pop and a touch of springtime charm.