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The bright yellow of lemons represents renewal, freshness, and tartness in one golden oval globe.
Lemons, the fruit we see most often in still life paintings of both novice and master artists, are also the fruit that chefs (whose medium is edible art) pick for dishes sweet to savory, as well as for an important flavoring of drinks.
Choose firm, plump, heavy for their size, bright yellow lemons with no tint of green. Store them in the refrigerator for two to three weeks. Freshly squeezed lemon juice is an excellent source of vitamin C, but remember that you must drink it immediately because it loses that vitamin power soon after it’s squeezed.
I’ve found that whenever a dish needs to be “enlivened” after tasting it, a splash of fresh lemon juice will generally do the trick. This technique is especially practical for folks who need to watch their salt intake.
This week’s recipe for skate wings is adapted from Jamie Oliver. It is best served immediately after cooking, so assemble all the ingredients at the stove and plan about 10 to 12 minutes for the preparation. Potatoes work very well with this entrée.
My friend Penny makes these tasty Greek style potatoes that seem to fit with all entrées, and they are equally delicious with eggs for a special brunch on a leisure morning.
Lemon and almonds make a flavorful filling for a springtime tart. Top it with strawberries and whipped cream or just serve it unadorned: it’s a winner either way. Bon appétit!
(Serves 4)4 skate wings, about 7 to 8 ounces each, trimmedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteRice or Wondra flour for dusting4 tablespoons olive oilAbout 2 tablespoons unsalted butter8 slices prosciutto or smoked ham, sliced2 cloves garlic, minced1 small head of radicchio, sliced2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and well drainedJuice of 2 lemons or more to tasteTo prepare:
Preheat the oven to 450. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper
Wash the skate, pat dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Dust the skate with flour, patting off the excess.
Add the oil to a large skillet over high heat, and when it shimmers, add two tablespoons butter and the skate.
Reduce the heat to medium high and cook until the skate is nicely browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn, and brown the other side, about 2 minutes.
Transfer the fish to the prepared baking sheet. Proceed until all fish is browned. Transfer to the oven and bake until the flesh just pulls away from the bone, about 5 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, in the same skillet, add sliced prosciutto and sauté until golden. Add garlic, radicchio, and capers, reduce the heat and add a little bit of the butter.
Cook, stirring until the radicchio is wilted, a few minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, then taste and correct the seasonings. Spoon over the skate and serve at once.
(Serves 8)3½ pounds baking potatoes, peeled1/4 cup olive oil5 large cloves garlic, chopped1 tablespoon Greek dry oregano1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juiceZest of one lemon1/4 cup waterSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteTo prepare:
Preheat the oven to 425.
Peel potatoes and cut into even size pieces or quarters.
Coat with olive oil the bottom of a roasting pan that is large enough to hold the potatoes in one layer.
Toss the peeled potatoes in the oil. Add garlic, oregano, salt and pepper to taste and mix well to coat all sides of the potatoes.
Add lemon juice, zest, and water and roast, stirring occasionally until tender, about 45 minutes.
Serve at once. Any leftover potatoes are perfect for potato salad.
(Serves 6 to 8)For the crust:1½ cups flour1/2 teaspoon sugar1/4 teaspoon salt1/2 cup unsalted butter, cold cut into chunks1 egg, beaten2 to 3 tablespoons ice water or more as neededFor the filling:3/4 cup toasted almonds, chopped4 tablespoons almond paste1/3 cup sugar1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juiceGrated zest of 2 lemons2 large eggs1/3 cup buttermilkSplash pure almond extractTo prepare:
In the bowl of a food processor, place the flour, salt and sugar and pulse a few times to blend.
Add chunks of butter and process until the butter the mixture looks like coarse meal.
Meanwhile, whisk the egg with 1 tablespoon cold water in a bowl. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and, using a table fork, pull the egg/water through the flour. Add more water if necessary until the mixture forms a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate about thirty minutes or up to six hours.
To bake: preheat the oven to 350. Roll crust into a circle that is large enough to fit a 10- to 11-inch tart pan and transfer it to the pan, crimp the edges and set aside.
Meanwhile, purée almonds, almond paste and sugar together until the nuts are finely ground.
Add lemon juice, zest, eggs, buttermilk and almond extract and mix until blended.
Pour the filling into the tart shell and bake until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean and the top is golden brown, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Cool on a rack and serve topped with whipped cream and strawberries.
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