By Janeen Sarlin
Spring rituals are here at last. Nature’s rebirth—the budding trees and daffodils and tulips pushing through the earth—puts me in the mood for one of my favorite springtime foods: a leg of lamb.
In the past I’ve tried exotic seasonings and unique cooking methods, but now I prefer a French classic roasting technique. For that reason, I accompany the roast with potatoes and green beans. Any favorite recipe works, but this year they will be boulangere potatoes and haricots verts.
The following recipe includes all three dishes, outlining a way to economize the time spent in the kitchen, allowing extra time to socialize or work in the garden for maximum spring blooms.
In the slight case of there being leftover lamb, this week’s quick tagine is perfect for supper a few days later in the week. Bon appétit!
(Serves 6 to 8)1 whole leg of lamb, about 7 pounds, trimmed and tied12 large cloves garlic, peeledAbout 1 cup loosely packed roughly chopped fresh rosemary leaves2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves1 tablespoon coarse cracked peppercorns (mixture of black and white, green and red)2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilCoarse sea salt to taste (about 1 tablespoon)For the jus:1 large shallot, minced2 cups red wine2 cups chicken stockSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteButter for swirling—optionalFor the potatoes:2 pounds fingerling or small red bliss potatoes2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 onions halved, quartered and sliced (2 cups)4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced2 tablespoons finely chopped flat leaf parsleyAbout 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemarySea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteAbout 2 cups chicken stockFor the haricots verts:1½ pounds haricots verts (French green beans) or green beans, stem ends removedSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste To prepare lamb:
Ask the butcher to trim the excess fat off the lamb and tie it, which will improve the shape, allowing it to cook more evenly. Slice five garlic cloves very thin so they will be fully roasted when the lamb is cooked. Make slits in the lamb and insert the garlic slices into the meat. Coarsely chop the remaining cloves.
In a small dish, combine the chopped garlic, rosemary, thyme, pepper and oil. Mix well and then use your hands to rub the mixture over the lamb, letting the seasonings fall into the pan. Cover and refrigerate for one hour or overnight.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375. Lightly oil a large roasting pan.
Remove the lamb from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature, at least 30 minutes. Generously season the lamb with salt, set it in the pan and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 134 degrees F. Begin checking the temperature after 70 minutes, because once it reaches 125 degrees F. it will cook quickly.
Transfer the lamb to a serving platter, let rest loosely covered with aluminum foil for 30 minutes. Reserve the pan juices in the roasting pan for au jus.
Meanwhile, peel potatoes and drop them into a bowl of cold water. Slice them about a half-inch thick and return them to the water to prevent discoloration.
Coat with olive oil the bottom of a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook, stirring until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until aromatic.
Drain the potatoes and add them to the onions and garlic along with the herbs, salt and pepper. Cook until the potatoes and onions begin to brown.
Add one cup of stock, stir well and cook until the stock is reduced by half. Add the remaining stock and cook, tossing every now and then, until the potatoes are tender but still hold their shape and the stock has reduced to a thick sauce, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm until serving time.
Cook the haricots verts in boiling water until tender but firm, plunge into cold water, drain well and return the beans to the pot. Cover and keep warm. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
For lamb jus and to serve:
Pour off all but about one tablespoon of the pan drippings. Set the pan over the heat, covering two burners. Add the shallots to the pan drippings and sauté, stirring constantly until aromatic, about 2 minutes.
Add the wine and bring to a boil, deglaze the pan, scraping up all the bits in the bottom of the pan. Transfer everything to a saucepan over high heat.
Bring the wine/juices to a boil and cook until the wine is nearly evaporated, add the stock and accumulated juices from the lamb platter, bring to a boil, skimming the foam off the surface. Cook until the sauce thickens, about 10 to 12 minutes. Season to taste, strain the sauce, swirl in the optional butter if desired.
Carve the lamb, arrange on a platter, garnish with fresh rosemary sprigs and pass the sauce at the table.
Transfer the potatoes and haricots verts to warm bowls and pass at the table.
(Serves 4)About 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil1 large onion, chopped2 cloves garlic, minced1/2 teaspoon turmeric1/4 teaspoon each, cumin, coriander, and thymeAbout 1/2 cup chopped freshly flat leaf parsleyAbout 3½ cups diced or sliced lambSea salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteGrated zest of one lemon, plus juicesSplash red wine to deglaze the panAbout 1/2 cup stuffed green olives or more to tasteOne 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juicesOptional, one 14-ounce can chickpeas, drainedSprigs of flat leaf fresh parsley for garnishTo prepare:
Coat with olive oil the bottom of a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until aromatic.
Add garlic, turmeric, cumin, coriander, and thyme and sauté until aromatic and garlic is soft.
Stir in parsley and lamb, briefly sauté, taste and add salt and pepper if needed. Add lemon zest and splash of red wine and deglaze the pan.
Add olives, tomatoes, and chickpeas if using. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the flavors blend, about 5 to 10 minutes.
Adjust the seasonings with lemon juice or salt and pepper.
Serve at once and garnish with a sprig of fresh parsley.
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