Marcus Samuelsson Will Be Honored At Chefs And Champagne In Sagaponack

There was once a time that the narrative of the black chef did not exist. And, just by his unassuming name—Marcus Samuelsson—he gained entry to some of the best kitchens in the world.

His sheer talent didn’t hurt, either.

In the years since his early days working in Switzerland and Austria—and then, famously, as head chef at Aquavit when he was just 24 years old—the Ethiopian-born chef has won “Top Chef Masters,” cooked at the White House for President Barack Obama, and is the proud restaurateur behind Red Rooster Harlem, Ginny’s Supper Club and Streetbird Rotisserie.

The road there wasn’t easy. At 3 years old, he contracted tuberculosis alongside his sister. Their mother, who was also fighting the disease, walked 75 miles with her children to the nearest hospital. They would survive, but she would not, and soon found themselves adopted by a family in Sweden—hence his surname.

On Saturday, July 29, Mr. Samuelsson will be honored at the James Beard Foundation’s annual Chefs & Champagne fundraiser and tasting party at Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack, where he will join the likes of Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay and Carla Hall, to name a few honorees of the nonprofit culinary arts foundation.

“I think the narrative of a black chef definitely exists,” Mr. Samuelsson said. “I think it can be told through many voices. Leah Chase’s journey is different than mine, Patrick Clark’s journey is different than JJ’s, or Nyesha Arrington in California is different that others. These chefs share many things: they share love of food, ambition, and as people of color, we always have to do it a little different, but that’s what makes it great and stronger, and that’s what makes it delicious.”

The Press: What has been your most memorable experience at Chefs & Champagne to date?

Marcus Samuelsson: One great memory I have is when Daniel Boulud got honored. It was the perfect day and so festive. Every C&C event I’ve attended has been very memorable because they all deserve it. From Bobby to Carla and the others, it’s just such an incredible day filled with good food and people you respect so much. I believe it was the year Daniel got honored he sprayed everyone with champagne. It truly was Chefs & Champagne.

How did you find out you were being honored this year?

Samuelsson: Susan was kind enough to reach out and I was super excited to find out I was being honored. Chefs & Champagne and Beard are something you aspire to. You think back to other great chefs like Mildred [Amico], and then you think about the event of cooking with colleagues, also seeing young interns becoming chefs. Beard celebrates all of that.

Talk to me about your journey into the food world. What do you remember about Ethiopia, if anything?

Really most of the memories from Ethiopia came from my sister because she was around 5 when we left and got to Sweden. My first memories were eating fish in Sweden with my family. Always a lot of fresh fish, picking berries, and foraging for mushrooms. Nature is a big part of how I cook and why I cook.

When you were in Sweden, your grandmother taught you to cook. What was she like in the kitchen, and out?

Helga was amazing. She taught me how to cook, how to use the ingredients you have, to keep it simple, and make it delicious. She was a big influence for me in learning how to cook, with the basics and using local ingredients. Outside the kitchen she was just as wonderful and supportive. I was very lucky to have her.

What was your biggest takeaway from what she taught you?

For me, the biggest takeaway was how to make food delicious, no matter what ingredients you are working with. And the meatballs. She taught me the recipe for our family meatballs, which I still use to this day and various versions of it are on my menus.

When did you realize you loved cooking?

It was when I was a young kid, cooking with my grandmother for my family. Also, one of my first jobs was fishing with my uncles. I’m from a small village in Gothenburg, Sweden, and fishing was big there. So one of my earliest memories as a child was going out on the water, catching fish, coming back and selling the fish, and then learning how to fillet and cook it. That was a great way to grow up and a great way to learn about cooking.

What is the most memorable kitchen you’ve ever worked in?

My grandmother Helga’s kitchen. She ruled that kitchen, was so good at what she did, and was the start of my love of cooking and food. All the kitchens I’ve worked in have been very informative—from cooking in Switzerland and understanding how hotels work, Japan, France, and Aquavit in New York City, and all the opportunities that gave me, to opening Red Rooster and those kitchen experiences. I think it’s all part of a chef’s tale and journey. For most chefs, it’s not a linear tale. It’s hard work, mentors and being excited to share your craft.

How does the White House rank among the top experiences you’ve had?

Nothing prepares you for that, it is such an incredible experience and I’m so honored and humbled to have been asked to do that.

Is there any particular food or dish you’re obsessed with right now?

I’m still in love with my grandmother’s meatballs, but I feel like there’s still a lot of work to be done on how to make it even more delicious. I’m a believer in evolving the dishes and not thinking they are ever done. Right now we are on our 50th version of the fried chicken royal and I think we just came up with a new way that will lead us down another path.

What is your biggest guilty pleasure, food-wise?

Over indulging on vegetables! I’m a pretty healthy guy. I like ramen and fried chicken too.

When you’re not cooking, what do you enjoy doing?

Spending time with my wife Maya and son Zion, jogging, reading, writing.

Other than attending Chefs & Champagne, how do you think you’ll spend your time on the East End?

I like to spend time by the water, visiting chef friends in the area and the farmers markets.

Marcus Samuelsson will be honored at Chefs & Champagne, featuring culinary creations from more than 40 chefs, on Saturday, July 29, at 6 p.m. at Wölffer Estate Vineyard in Sagaponack. Tickets are $275, or $200 for James Beard Foundation members. VIP admission begins at 5 p.m. and costs $375. VIP tables for 10 are available for $4,000. For tickets and more information, visit jamesbeard.org/chefsandchampagne.