Dining Out In Southampton - 27 East

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Dining Out In Southampton

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The split trunk exposing the carefully stored honeycomb. LISA DAFFY

The split trunk exposing the carefully stored honeycomb. LISA DAFFY

Named after the homeowners' Australian origin, "Tanderra" meaning "resting place" boosts several casual gardens in the heart of the Village of Quogue. MAGGY KILROY

Named after the homeowners' Australian origin, "Tanderra" meaning "resting place" boosts several casual gardens in the heart of the Village of Quogue. MAGGY KILROY

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Dining Out

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Jun 17, 2011

One of the best things about summers spent in the Hamptons is eating out. But with so many diverse restaurants to choose from, making a decision can be a challenge. This week, Arts & Living visited Southampton chefs to discover which dishes on their menus make their mouths water, keep the hungry customers coming back and stand out among other choices on the menu.

Le Chef

2

83-8581

Most Popular: Soft Shell-Crabs; entrée; $24.95.

Chef’s Favorite: Lobster and Shrimp Salad; entrée; $29.95.

Signature: Seafood Risotto; entrée; $36.

Early summer is the best time of year for soft-shell crabs, according to owner/chef Frank Lenihan. At Le Chef, they are sautéed to a crisp using a lot of heat, a hint of garlic and dry white wine, he reported.

“The essence and flavor of the crab remains, it’s not to be smothered,” he said.

Garnished with fresh vegetables or served on a baguette with sun dried tomatoes and tartar sauce, the crab is a simple, summertime crowd pleaser.

Mr. Lenihan’s personal favorite, the Lobster and Shrimp Salad, is also a seafood dish. The freshly-shucked lobster and shrimp is served atop local greens with avocado and local tomatoes and infused with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil, anise and lemon juice.

Seafood Risotto, made with de-shelled lobster, fresh sea scallops, white South American shrimp, and local or Edward Island muscles (depending on availability), is sautéed with sweet peas, white wine and Parmesan cheese.

“It’s been tested over time,” he said. “And when you have a dish that you attempt to change seasonally but the customers still ask for the original, it becomes ingrained in your business.”

Barrister’s Restaurant

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83-6206

Most Popular: Grilled Chicken and Arugula Salad; entrée; $14.

Chef’s Favorite: “Radar’s” Grilled Peach Salad; entrée; $12.

Signature: Spicy Yellowfin Tuna-Avocado Tempura Roll; entrée; $14.

Main Street shoppers duck into Barrister’s for “knock-out items,” said owner Michael Ferran. One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is the Grilled Chicken and Arugula Salad, served with balsamic vinaigrette and sweet pimientos to enhance the flavor.

“It suits just about everyone because the combination of chicken and peppery arugula really works for people,” Mr. Ferran said.

Mr. Ferran’s personal favorite is “Radar’s” Grilled Peach Salad made with baby greens, crumbled bleu cheese, walnuts, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic reduction and a honey drizzle. Mr. Ferran said both he and the customers enjoy it because everyone loves the idea of “a fresh, delicious summer peach, grilled to enhance the flavor.”

Beating out the competition for signature dish is the Spicy Yellowfin Tuna-Avocado Tempura Roll, created by Rajrai, Barrister’s new Himalayan chef. Served with pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce, the dish is a stand-out on the menu, Mr. Ferran said.

“The combination is so delicious and we’ve never had a Japanese-style dish before,” he said.

Shippy’s 
Pumpernickels East

2

83-0007

Most Popular: Wiener Schnitzel; lunch: $16.95, dinner; $25.95.

Chef’s Favorite: Rouladen; lunch: $16.95, dinner; $25.95.

Signature: Sizzling Steaks; lunch: $17.95, dinner; $28.95.

Shippy’s has been serving the Hamptons since the 1950s, even before owner/chef Nick Nielsen’s family bought the restaurant in 1978 and introduced German cuisine to its menu.

“If you want to see old-time Southampton, the way it used to be, Shippy’s is it,” Mr. Nielson explained.

Without any hesitation, Mr. Nielsen said the restaurant’s most popular item is Wiener Schnitzel. The top-ground veal is pounded thin, covered in flour, egg wash and bread crumbs and sautéed in butter and lemon. It’s served with a choice of potato, vegetable and soup or salad.

“It’s light and tastes great,” Mr. Nielsen said. “Maybe people like to try veal instead of chicken because it’s a leaner meat.”

Mr. Nielsen’s favorite is another popular German recipe called “Rouladen,” which is thinly-rolled beef filled with pickles, onion, bacon, mustard and salt and pepper. The beef is then baked in water, allowing the juices from all the ingredients to seep out and mix, creating a gravy.

“The combination of tastes go so well together and the beef is so tender, it’s a symphony in your mouth,” he said. “Just fantastic.”

The Sizzling Steaks are as simple as they sound, Mr. Nielsen said. He marinates New York sirloin in Shippy’s “secret recipe marinade” and then broils it. The steak is served on a special platter that creates the sizzling smoky aroma that the dish is named after.

“It’s really something to see,” Mr. Nielsen said. “The smell fills the whole restaurant and that is what makes the customers want to order it.”

Southampton 
Publick House

2

83-2800

Most Popular: BBQ Baby Back Ribs; entrée; full rack: $22, half rack: $17

Chef’s Favorite: Calamari Salad, entrée; $14.

Signature: Seared Atlantic Salmon, entrée; $22.

Although the restaurant is most known for its hand-crafted beers, head chef Carl Holfedler said the food holds its ground, too.

The classic BBQ Baby Back Ribs are the customer favorite at Publick House, Mr. Holfedler explained, because they are so tender and flavorful.

“People just love them because they fall off the bone and they are always good,” he said. “They will just never go wrong.”

What makes the ribs so good? That’s just not something the chefs at Publick House are willing to share, Mr. Holfedler said.

One of the menu’s newer items, the Calamari Salad, features lightly battered calamari over mixed greens, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, Gorgonzola cheese and is topped with a spicy strawberry vinaigrette. Mr. Holfedler said that even though the ingredients offer all different flavors, the combination is surprising and delicious.

“Italian chefs say, ‘Don’t mix cheese with fish,’” the chef said with a smile. “But hey, it just works.”

The Atlantic Salmon, which is seared and placed in a Mandarin orange and ginger glaze, is served with grilled asparagus, squash and tomatoes over rice.

“I get a 5 a.m. picture message every morning from our fisherman,” Mr. Holfedler said. “He sends me a picture of the fish and says ‘Which one is yours?’ That’s how we guarantee we have the freshest fish available.”

Red Bar Brasserie

2

83-0704

Most Popular: Truffled Chicken Breast with Wild Mushroom Risotto; entrée; $27.

Chef’s Favorite: Sautéed Local Monkfish; entrée; $29.

Signature: Linguini with Sea Urchin; appetizer; $15.

The most popular dish’s intense flavor is thanks to its truffles, said executive chef Erik Nodeland. For the Truffled Chicken Breast, the fowl is pan-roasted and served with a side of wild mushroom risotto and French beans.

“I’ve had a lot of people say it’s hard to find a roasted chicken done right around here,” Mr. Nodeland said. “We must have it right because I can’t believe how much chicken we sell.”

The monkfish’s sweet taste has won over the his heart, Mr. Nodeland reported. The fish is served with wilted snow pea tendrils, lemon-potato emulsion and chorizo.

“I love the sautéed local monkfish and anything with chorizo,” the chef explained.

According to Mr. Nodeland, the Linguini with Sea Urchin has become the signature dish simply because it’s unique. The pasta appetizer is made with crimini mushrooms, jumbo lump crab, garlic, chili flake and dry vermouth.

“You just don’t normally see a dish like this around here,” Mr. Nodeland noted of the ingredients in his novel signature appetizer.

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