Dining Out visits Hamptons Thai

A delicate carrot butterfly, paper thin and a perfect earthy shade of orange, is perched atop a serving of pork pad Thai.

“You eat with your eyes first,” says Boontida “Jinny” Monparpunth, niece of the head chef at the recently opened Hamptons Thai on Noyac Road in Southampton.

“Presentation is important,” she said with an easy smile during an interview last week. “If the food is good, it’s good: Your stomach will know.”

This straightforward logic appears to be part of the culture Witthaya “Ben” Kittiratanaporn, the owner, has worked to incorporate in all aspects of this new addition to the Thai cuisine offerings on the East End. Ms. Monparpunth noted that the restaurant strives to be a place where the food is authentic and the attitude is absent. This formula has proved successful, she said, at other Kittiratanaporn Thai restaurants faurther up island: Thai Classic in Selden, Saran in Glen Cove and Chaophaya in Deer Park.

Located on Noyac Road, Hamptons Thai is an amalgam of old and new. Armand’s Pizza, which use to occupy the entire establishment, has now become a small extension of the restaurant, offering tried and true Italian fare. The “Grandma Elsie” pie ($12) with marinara sauce, fresh roasted tomatoes, sweet caramelized onions, chopped garlic, grated romano and parmesan and fresh basil is still available daily.

This offbeat cohabitation in some ways echoes the mix of flavors found in several dishes created by head chefs Chon Monparpunth and Mol Rudee Kittiratanaporn, mother of the owner.

Appetizers range from chicken saté, barbecued chicken on skewers served with peanut sauce and a crisp cucumber salad ($12) to

hoy oob

, mussels steamed with Thai herbs, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and chili sauce ($15).

The main dining area occupies a sunken room adorned with Buddha-inspired shrine-like figures; wide windows offer views of lush greenery outside. The tables are arranged so that none is too far from an ornately decorated fireplace. Other warming accents are provided by the house soup, chicken with vegetables and glass noodles ($7), or the

tom ka

soup, prepared with chunks of chicken or shrimp, coconut milk, galangal, lemongrass, mushrooms and lime juice ($7).

Salads include the Thai salad of mesclun greens, cucumber, tomato, bean sprouts, bean curd, onion and peanut dressing ($10); papaya salad, with shredded young papaya, tomato, peanuts, and dry ground shrimp with chili-lime dressing ($15); and a duck salad of roasted boneless duck with chili pepper, onion, crunchy cashew nuts, lemon juice and fresh apple ($18).

The menu is divided between stir-fry dishes, noodle entrées, curries and the chef’s recommendations.

All stir-fry, curry and noodle dishes are served with a choice of shrimp ($20), beef, pork, or chicken ($18).

Ms. Monparpunth recommends “anything with pork, but the basil stir-fried pork is really delicious,” adding that this dish pairs well with a tangy lychee sake ($10), served hot or cold. Beyond the basil preparation, the manager also touted stir-fry pork steeped in ginger, mushroom, scallion, celery and onion with brown bean sauce. A cashew nut medley or sweet and sour pineapple sauce option is also available.

Four curries can be found on the menu, ranging from mild to very spicy. The least spicy,

mussaman

, is a creamy combination of coconut milk, potatoes, peanuts and onion.

Panang

curry is thick and sweet. The red and green curry share a similar texture, with the green curry favored by those who like extra heat.

No Thai menu would be complete without the quintessential pad Thai: stir fried noodles with egg, bean curd, scallion, bean sprouts accented by peanut flavor throughout. A slight textural variation can be found in the Drunk Man noodles, stir-fried and served with choice of meat, basil leaves and chilies.

A favorite among the younger set, sweet and spicy fried rice dishes are also available. For vegetarians, Hamptons Thai offers a “sauteed delight,” prepared with mixed vegetables and tofu in garlic sauce ($18) as well as a simple vegetable curry, fresh veggies with a red curry paste, coconut milk and tofu ($20).

The chef’s recommendations range from the popular duck tamarind, deboned duck, sautéed vegetables, rice and a sweet, spicy red onion tamarind sauce ($29) to the sea scallops in green curry with coconut milk, bamboo shoots, basil, string beans, eggplant and chilies ($29).

Complementing the fully stocked bar, Hamptons Thai also offers a variety of flavored sakes ($10) along with dry sake, Zato Thai or Sho Chiku Bai Nama Organic ($8). Domestic and imported beers ($7-$8) are served along with Thai specialty beers, Singha or Beerlao. Wines are also served by the glass ($7) or bottle ($29-$50).

Hot teas, including ginseng, jasmine, ginger or—a staff favorite—soybean, are also available ($3-$8).

Hamptons Thai is open seven days a week for dinner only, from 5 to 10 p.m. Ms. Monparpunth noted that prix fixe dinners and party specials will be offered in the coming months.