Dining Out Visits Olde Speonk Inn - 27 East

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Dining Out Visits Olde Speonk Inn

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Dining Out

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Sep 26, 2008

At the Olde Speonk Inn, co-owner and general manager Mike Bracken caters to two distinct groups: diners looking for a fine meal made with fresh, local ingredients; and a late-night bar crowd.

Unlike seasonal restaurants on the East End, the Olde Speonk Inn is open year-round. In 2006, Mr. Bracken teamed up with colleagues Steve and Michele Ryan, Chris Glynn, Tom Dollard, James Carroll and Joe Grillo to purchase the Montauk Highway property a few minutes west of Westhampton.

“It was a group effort,” Mr. Bracken said of the decision, as the same group owns Tide Runners restaurant in Hampton Bays and all agreed the venture would be a good way to expand their business.

The restaurant that previously occupied the site, also called the Olde Speonk Inn, had a similar atmosphere. Although the owners worked to retain the feel of the restaurant, they have completely renovated the inside since taking over more than two and a half years ago.

According to Mr. Bracken, the building that houses the restaurant is nearly a century old and originally operated as an inn. The owner said that in its heyday the inn catered to celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, who are rumored to have stayed overnight.

Mr. Bracken can been seen at the restaurant most days of the week, either behind the bar or ensuring that the dining room operation runs smoothly. Now a resident of Southampton, he has been in the restaurant business since he was a teenager living in Queens; he previously owned and operated the Last Second Saloon on Second Avenue and 95th Street in Manhattan.

Mr. Bracken describes the dishes served at the restaurant as “new American” with an emphasis on seafood. With the exception of a few signature items, the menu selections change “almost weekly,” according to Mr. Bracken.

Entrées, priced from $25 to $34, include seared breast of Long Island duck ($26.95) and herb crusted swordfish in a beurre blanc sauce ($32.50), one of the establishment’s signature dishes. Appetizers range from $8 to $15 and include gazpacho ($8.95) and Maryland crab cakes ($13.95.) The menu also includes such first-course choices as the caesar salad ($9.95) and roasted beet salad ($10.95.)

The dessert menu also changes frequently

Younger diners can select from the children’s menu, which features hamburgers, chicken fingers, and pasta with marinara or butter for $10.95.

A three-course prix fixe dinner for $26.95 is also available all evening on Sunday, Monday and Thursday, and on Friday until 6:30 p.m. A recent prix fixe menu included appetizer choices of baked local mussels and roasted calamari and entrée choices of linguine shrimp sauté and grilled flat iron steak, along with a few other options. Dessert is also included in the prix fixe.

Mr. Bracken noted that the menu draws on a number of local ingredients, including Long Island seafood and duck. “Almost all of our seafood is local,” he said. “We use local ingredients whenever we can.”

He also touted the freshness of everything served in the restaurant. “All of our salads are fresh,” he said. “Everything is made from scratch.”

Although the restaurateurs strive for a fine-dining feel, Mr. Bracken says he wants his guests to feel comfortable when frequenting the establishment. “It’s fine dining without pretense,” he said. “It’s a country inn kind of ambiance.”

The main dining room features intimate tables covered with plain white linen and can accommodate up to 75 people. The establishment is also open for private parties.

One unique aspect of the Olde Speonk Inn is the distinction between the main dining room and the bar. “Later at night we become a regular bar,” Mr. Bracken said.

The bar, which can stay open until 4 a.m. on weekends, has become a regular destination for a local crowd, with patrons who come to play pool and listen to music. The bar also features live bands on some occasions.

The stone-walled pub room also features six 40-inch plasma television screens and a 106-inch-wide screen high definition television. Patrons in the bar can order off the full menu as well as a modified menu that includes burgers and mozzarella sticks. The bar also features Guinness, Blue Moon, Samuel Adams Octoberfest, Stella Artois, and Sierra Nevada on tap.

Chef Paul Chonorma, who has worked at the restaurant for the past six years, said he keeps his job interesting by experimenting and preparing a wide array of foods. “It’s all about having fun,” Mr. Chonorma said.

Mr. Chonorma explained that he studied under Chef Frank Lucas who worked at the restaurant under the previous owners and now works at Starr Boggs in Westhampton Beach. “He’s my sensei,” Mr. Chonorma said.

The cuisine at the Olde Speonk Inn samples from a variety of styles, including Southwestern and Cajun fare. Although there is a heavy emphasis on seafood, the kitchen staff is always hard at work coming up with new dishes. “I travel the world in this kitchen,” Mr. Chonorma said.

Mr. Chonorma explained the importance of taking the time to enjoy luxe meals like those served at the Olde Speonk Inn. “If you can’t live like a king,” he said, “you might as well eat like one.”

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