New address, but same approach

Bostwick’s has traded in its spot in the sand for one by the road, but co-owner Chris Eggert is assuring customers that nothing of any substance was left behind.

The 18-year-old restaurant is taking the place of Cherrystone’s, also owned by Mr. Eggert and Kevi Boles as both a take-out and fine seafood restaurant. “We combined the two restaurants,” said Mr. Eggert, explaining that customers will find favorites from both establishments featured on the menu.

The restaurant, now called Bostwick’s Chowder House, is casual and laid back on the inside, according to Mr. Eggert, who added that the same theme is reflected in the food.

Homemade soups include both New England and Manhattan clam chowders for $6; lobster bisque for $7; and corn chowder for $5.

Appetizers come from both the land and sea: $6 homemade edamame hummus served with flatbreads, celery and carrots; $8 Buffalo chicken wings; $10 coconut shrimp spring rolls with sweet chili dipping sauce; and $12 fried oysters with roasted corn salsa and remoulade.

Mr. Eggert doesn’t consider himself a big fan of seafood, but if he had to pick favorites, it would be steamers and clams, one of which makes an appearance under entrées. Fried seafood platters include $12 clam strips with tartar sauce, $18 fried oysters and remoulade sauce, $17 battered fried shrimp with cocktail sauce and a $21 fisherman’s platter with flounder, shrimp, oysters and clam strips with tartar sauce.

The raw bar offers up a $13 sampler of oysters, clams and shrimp cocktail, among other dishes.

The focus on seafood is reflected in sea creature decor: signs in the shapes of fish hang above, floor mats are in the shape of underwater dwellers and pagers in the shape of lobsters alert guests that their table is ready.

“It’s a casual kind of place,” Mr. Eggert said. “We’re both laid back family friendly type of people.”

Guests shouldn’t expect fine china upon arrival, and the flatware here is more akin to the plastic kind. Most of the sandwiches, including the $17 grilled Montauk tuna sandwich and $13 crab cake sandwich translate easily into the finger food category.

Mr. Eggert started his restaurant career as a dishwasher at Michael’s in Springs. He moved up the food chain after the chef called in sick one day. In 1990, Mr. Eggert was working in the kitchen at Little Rock Yacht Club on Three Mile Harbor Road when he convinced his friend, Mr. Boles, to travel east for the summer to work the bar.

Several years later, the owner of Little Rock left and Mr. Eggert and Mr. Boles took over the restaurant, naming it Bostwick’s after Mr. Eggert’s favorite fishing spot near Gardiner’s Island. Years later, the restaurant moved again to Gann Road.

“We hope it’ll eventually be open year-round, so we can continue to serve families while developing the place and improving on it,” Mr. Eggert said. In the fall the restaurant will be open four days a week and then will close at the end of November, opening again in early April.

One menu item left over from back in the days when Snowflake was doing business at the site is the ice cream. Guests can still order soft serve in chocolate, vanilla or swirl and add a few toppings into the mix. Mr. Eggert maintains that the tradition has held strong over the years: “Some people come just for the ice cream.”