Shippy's in Southampton serves up tradition

Family tradition is the primary ingredient that has made Shippy’s Pumpernickels Restaurant East in Southampton Village a hit for almost 55 years.

And the traditions do not stop with the ownership, customers or family recipes. Chef Mitch Kruszyna, rumored to make the best beef goulash in town, has been cooking up his magic in Shippy’s kitchen for the past 36 years.

Mr. Kruszyna began working at the restaurant under the original owner, William “Shippy” Casgrain, at age 14. During an interview this week, Mr. Kruszyna explained that he inherited his culinary skills from his mother Janis, a native of Poland who worked in Shippy’s kitchen for 21 years, and from “Shippy” himself. “I learned a great deal from her,” Mr. Krusznya said of his mother. “And from Mr. Casgrain.”

Though he enjoys conjuring up traditional German fare like wiener schnitzel ($25.95), sauerbraten ($23.95), bratwurst ($23.95) and beef rouladen ($25.95) for dinner, Mr. Krusznya says it is the goulash that he relishes serving the most.

The goulash, either beef or veal over egg noodles, is served as a special once or twice a month for $14.95, and is the dish that folks really crave, according to Nancy Klavis, a waitress who has worked at the restaurant for 10 years. “They call in advance and ask if we’re serving it,” she explained.

Other dinner specials include prime rib with potatoes and vegetables, and a choice of soup or salad, served only on Sunday for $18.95. Monday through Thursday, the restaurant offers a nightly dinner special for $16.95. Those dishes vary but usually include turkey with stuffing, chicken schnitzel, loin of pork, and leg of lamb with side dish choices.

Many of the dinner items are also offered at lower prices during lunch.

Though Shippy’s is famous for its German specialties, Mr. Krusznya also enjoys satisfying his customers with fare “From the Sea,” as it appears on the menu. Dinnertime seafood dishes include a $27.95 stuffed flounder with crab meat or shrimp scampi; $32.95 broiled lobster tails; and market price broiled or fried scallops and king crab legs. All seafood dishes are served with salad or soup, choice of potato and the vegetable of the day.

And while the Shippy’s staff can dish out delicacies such as appetizer-size servings of chopped chicken liver, marinated herring or Ochsenmaul Salad—which is sliced tongue—all for $8.95 at dinnertime, simple pub treats are also offered during the day and evening.

There is a variety of pub fare to choose from, including a hot pastrami or corned beef sandwich for $9.95, burgers cooked to order starting at $8.95, and fried flounder on a roll for $11.95.

To finish up these Deutschland and American delights, the dessert menu includes German chocolate cake, Bavarian chocolate cream pie, and Black Forest cake, available for $5.95 each, and apple strudel for $6.50.

No description of Shippy’s menu could be complete without some discussion of the multitude of beverages. The restaurant has a full bar and an impressive array of beers, including German brews such as Spaten, Becks, and Schneider Weisse. “My favorite is the Spaten Oktoberfest,” Ms. Klavis said.

As for the storied family history of Shippy’s, Mr. Casgrain earned his nickname, and found the name of his restaurant, during his service as a Merchant Marine during World War II. In 1978, a German-born American named Ed Nielsen purchased the restaurant and brought with him many of the German dishes that now flavor the menu.

The restaurant eventually merged with Pumpernickels in Northport, the eatery owned by Mr. Nielsen’s wife, Elfie. Carrying on the family tradition, Mr. Nielsen’s son, Nick Nielsen, owns and manages the restaurant today.

When Mr. Casgrain first came to Southampton in the 1950s, looking to start a restaurant, he had already cut his teeth in New York City at the Toots Shor Saloon. The movie stars and sports celebrities he met during his tenure serving up spirits in the city followed him to his new haunt on the East End.

During the restaurant’s heyday, when Shippy’s friends such as Jackie Gleason and Gary Cooper were known to pop in, the sizzling steak became the signature dish. Today, the New York cut sirloin for $27.95, and the filet mignon topped with mushrooms at $28.95, still fill the seats. “The sizzling steaks are still the most popular,” Mr. Krusznya said.

Shippy’s has evolved into a Southampton Village icon today. This nostalgic mainstay, which was once the A&P grocery store, celebrates its history with old photographs and memorabilia decorating its walls. Old menus hanging on the wall reveal yesteryear’s memories and prices; lobster tails for a mere $1.50 and appetizers listed for only a quarter.

As for personal traditions and history, Mr. Krusznya talked about how much he enjoys working at the restaurant, his professional home for nearly four decades. As he talked about Shippy’s, he demonstrated an obvious pride in carrying on the restaurant’s tradition of quality food and friendly service.

“It’s a real family atmosphere,” Mr. Kruszyna said as he pointed to a picture of Mr. Casgrain on the wall centered around other sentimental photos. “I have fond memories of Shippy.”